From a sailor’s vantage point, Anse du Pharo in Marseille appears as a “musoir,” a protective barrier at the harbor’s entrance. Anse du Pharo sits on a natural hillock. This spot once held a watchtower, guarding the coastline. Anse du Pharo has a rich and layered past. It reflects Marseille’s maritime history.
Anse du Pharo isn’t just a picturesque inlet. It’s a place where history whispers through the stones and waves. Originally, a street named “Infirmeries Vieilles” was built here. It commemorated the nearby Lazaret des Catalans, a quarantine hospital. This street, now 180 meters long, was renamed “des Catalans” in 1987. In 1836, the Benet Foundry opened on this street. It manufactured boilers for steamships. Nearby, the Bains des Catalans, public baths, appeared in 1861. Imagine the clang of machinery and the hiss of steam mingling with the cries of bathers. By the late 19th century, even bullfighting arenas graced Anse du Pharo.
The French army used the area between Anse du Pharo and Boulevard du Pharo as a training ground. A military battery was established on the heights in 1859 and reorganized in 1877 with powerful cannons. In the 1920s, cavalry exercises took place here. During World War II, a German bunker, part of the “Sudwall” defense system, occupied the battery site. When Marseille was liberated in the fall of 1944, American troops landed their equipment in Anse du Pharo because the Vieux-Port was blocked.
Anse du Pharo’s connection to shipbuilding started at the end of the 18th century. It specialized in fishing boats by the early 20th century. This area hosted Marseille’s first sea bathing establishments. Dame Mercier established one in 1807. Dr. Giraudy opened a medical bathing establishment from 1818 to 1825. He later created a second one at Plage d’Arenc. Between 1812 and 1860, restaurants thrived on the rocks of Anse du Pharo before moving to the Corniche.
Today, Anse du Pharo is home to the BORG shipyard, specializing in traditional “pointu” boats. The Chantier Naval Sainte-Marie and the Voilerie Phocénne are also here. Military installations, including the CIRFA and the former Désirade battery, still occupy part of the area. A diving club, GRASM, focusing on underwater archaeology, adds another dimension to Anse du Pharo. While access to the waterfront is currently restricted, a new promenade is planned for 2024.
Anse du Pharo underwent a major cleanup in 2015. The goal was to prepare for its future as a Nautical Business Village. This project aims to create a modern and environmentally friendly nautical hub. It will house workshops for boat maintenance and repair, preserving the area’s maritime heritage.
Anse du Pharo, a place of historical echoes and future promise, invites you to explore its multifaceted story.