Beneath the vibrant green of Plaza Primero de Mayo lie the secrets of the Cementerio de los disidentes. This unassuming square in Balvanera conceals a poignant chapter of Buenos Aires’ history. For over half a century this was not a park but a cemetery. It served a unique purpose. It was a final resting place for those who did not follow the Catholic faith.
In the early 19th century Buenos Aires was a predominantly Catholic city. Those of other religions or no religion faced difficulty finding burial grounds. Catholic cemeteries were reserved for the faithful. This led to the creation of the Cementerio de los disidentes. The first such cemetery was near the Iglesia del Socorro in Retiro. However it quickly filled. Thus the need arose for a new location.
The Cementerio de los disidentes opened in 1833. It was located in what was known as “El Hueco de los Olivos”. It was administered by a commission of English German and American representatives. Interestingly it also served as a burial place for some of the earliest Jewish community members in Buenos Aires starting around 1870. The cemetery was divided into sections based on nationality and religion.
By the late 1890s the Cementerio de los disidentes was also full. The city’s growth and the devastating yellow fever epidemic necessitated a larger cemetery. The construction of the Chacarita Cemetery relieved the situation. The transfer of remains from the Cementerio de los disidentes to Chacarita began. It concluded in 1923.
However not all remains were moved. Some were never claimed or found. Among them is Elizabeth Chitty Curling de Brown the wife of Admiral Guillermo Brown. She was an Englishwoman of Protestant faith. She died in 1868 and was buried at the Cementerio de los disidentes. Her remains remain lost beneath Plaza Primero de Mayo. A bronze plaque commemorates her.
In 2006 workers renovating the plaza unearthed remains and artifacts. This served as a sobering reminder of the history buried beneath. The plaza itself was inaugurated in 1928. It was renamed Plaza Primero de Mayo in honor of International Workers’ Day. The monument Al Trabajo stands in the center a testament to the lives and labor that shaped Buenos Aires. Today as you stand on this very spot remember the stories whispered from the earth below. Remember the Cementerio de los disidentes a poignant echo of Buenos Aires’ diverse past.