“Auffes,” whispered the old fisherman, mending his net, “it’s not just a name. It’s a story woven into the very fabric of this place.” We stand here, at the Traverse des Auffières, a small, unassuming street, yet a gateway to a hidden world. The Traverse des Auffières, you see, offers a glimpse into the Vallon des Auffes, a charming little port nestled beneath the Corniche Kennedy. Its name, derived from the “auffe” plant used to make ropes and fishing nets, speaks volumes about its history. The Vallon des Auffières, accessible through this very traverse, was once a bustling hub of fishermen and boat builders.
The Traverse des Auffières is more than just a street. It is a pathway to a time capsule. Imagine, if you will, the 19th century. Jean-François Mayor de Montricher, the visionary behind the Corniche Kennedy, is also constructing a bridge. This bridge, spanning over 60 meters and boasting three arches 17 meters high, becomes the gateway to the Vallon des Auffes, connecting it to the bustling city above. Picture the fishermen, their colorful pointed boats bobbing in the harbor, their voices echoing against the stone houses. They would have walked this very Traverse des Auffières, their nets slung over their shoulders, the scent of salt and sea clinging to their clothes.
The Traverse des Auffières leads you down into this vibrant scene, a miniature village within the city. The small port is dotted with dozens of these charming fishermen’s houses, painted in a rainbow of hues. These homes, clinging to the hillside, seem to grow organically from the rocks. This intimate port, sheltered from the open sea, whispers tales of generations who have lived and worked by the rhythm of the tides.
As you descend the Traverse des Auffières, look up. High above, on the Corniche Kennedy, stands the Monument to the Heroes of the Army of Orient and Distant Lands. This 5-meter sculpture, an allegory of victory, was inaugurated in 1927 and classified as a historical monument in 2009. It serves as a silent guardian, watching over the Vallon des Auffes below. The Traverse des Auffières, therefore, connects not just two levels of the city, but two worlds. One of bustling city life, commemorated by grand monuments, and one of quiet, traditional fishing life, tucked away in a hidden valley. The Traverse des Auffières is a thread connecting the past and the present, a humble street offering a glimpse into the soul of Marseille.