Hidden amongst the towering buildings of Buenos Aires lies Plaza Leandro N Alem. This unassuming plaza holds a secret. It’s a gateway to the city’s vibrant past. A past shaped by ambitious projects and political shifts.
Plaza Leandro N Alem wasn’t always a tranquil green space. It once formed part of the Paseo de Julio. This was a bustling thoroughfare. Its location along the Río de la Plata made it a key commercial artery. Imagine the scene in 1780. Viceroy Juan José de Vértiz y Salcedo commissioned a two-lane street. He landscaped it with cottonwood trees. The Paseo de la Alameda became a popular promenade. It was a social hub. People enjoyed strolls and riverfront relaxation. An 1809 edict however banned bathing for reasons of morality.
The Paseo de Julio was renamed in honor of Rosas’ wife. It later changed again. In 1857 the southern half was named Paseo Colón. Flooding was a constant threat. In 1846 Governor Juan Manuel de Rosas ordered a six-block-long retaining wall. This protected the promenade from rising waters.
The area transformed drastically. Immigration brought a cosmopolitan flair. Italian trattorias French bistros and German beer halls opened their doors. This attracted more development. The city mandated porticos on all buildings along the street in 1875. This led to the closure of some less reputable establishments.
President Julio Roca then commissioned the development of a major port in 1881. This ambitious project involved reclaiming over 200 hectares of land. The Paseo de Julio was widened into a boulevard. Lola Mora’s Fountain of the Nereids a masterpiece was added. Its nude figures caused controversy leading to its relocation to Puerto Madero in 1918.
The boulevard attracted upscale office buildings. Many buildings reflected French architectural styles. These included the offices of Nicolás Mihanovich Shipping Company and Bunge y Born. The new Buenos Aires Stock Exchange headquarters were also built there in 1916. The boulevard was renamed Avenida Leandro N Alem in 1919. This honored Leandro Alem founder of the UCR. The UCR government completed the Buenos Aires Central Post Office in 1928.
Mayor José Guerrico further improved the avenue in 1931. He added medians creating bus and taxi lanes. This gave the avenue its current layout. Further development continued. Rationalist buildings such as the Comega and the Alas buildings were built. The Alas building was Argentina’s tallest until 1995. Zoning changes in 1966 allowed for the development of Catalinas Norte.
Today Plaza Leandro N Alem stands as a testament. It represents the city’s ever-evolving character. It’s a reminder of the commercial and political forces that shaped Buenos Aires. This unassuming space reflects the enduring spirit of the city itself. A place where history whispers amongst the trees and the skyscrapers. A place worth exploring.