Forgotten stories whisper around Yoritomo’s Mound Stele. It stands not far from where Minamoto no Yoritomo’s government once stood. He was the founder and first shogun of the Kamakura shogunate.
This isn’t just any stone monument. It marks a crucial figure in Japanese history. The Yoritomo’s Mound Stele commemorates Minamoto no Yoritomo. He shaped Japan’s feudal era. The monument we see today is not from Yoritomo’s time. It was erected during the Edo period centuries after his death in 1199.
But what exactly is Yoritomo’s Mound Stele? It is a 186 cm gorintō. That is a Buddhist stone stupa. It is enclosed by a stone tamagaki. This fence traditionally marks sacred Shinto ground. Though his actual remains may not lie here, this place is thought to be his resting place.
Interestingly, this site has drawn other historical structures over time. It is near the Site of the Hokke-dō. This is where Yoritomo’s funeral temple once stood. Also nearby is Shirahata Shrine. Do not confuse it with the other shrine at Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū. You will also find a black stone stele. It commemorates the Hokke-dō and the mass suicide of the Miura clan. A few hundred meters east, you can find more history. There are the yagura. They are artificial caves used as graves. You can also find the tombs of Ōe no Hiromoto, his son Mōri Suemitsu, and Yoritomo’s illegitimate son Shimazu Tadahisa.
When Yoritomo died in 1199 after falling from his horse he was buried in a temple north of his government seat. This temple was his jibutsudō. It enshrined his tutelary goddess Shō-Kannon. The area was known as Nishi Mikado or “Western Gate”. This hints that it was once west of the shogun’s palace.
The Hokke-dō was Yoritomo’s personal temple. It went through many changes. It was destroyed and rebuilt several times. In 1872, it was demolished. Today, Shirahata Shrine and a stone stele mark the spot. The stele tells a dramatic story. It explains that the Hokke-dō became Yoritomo’s grave after his death.
In 1217, Wada Yoshimori rebelled and set the Ōkura Bakufu on fire. Shogun Sanetomo sought refuge here. In 1247, the Miura clan barricaded themselves here to resist Hōjō forces. They committed mass suicide and their blood dyed the ground red and black.
A Hokke-dō is a Tendai hall for walking meditation. However, in Yoritomo’s time, it simply meant a funerary hall. This is because the Lotus Sūtra was read during funeral ceremonies. The Hokke-dō became Yoritomo’s grave after his death. It was officially named the following year during his funeral rites.
During the Edo period the Hokke-dō was moved to where Shirahata Jinja stands today. This Buddhist temple also served as a Shinto shrine. It enshrined Yoritomo’s spirit. During the Meiji period, Buddhism and Shinto were separated. Yoritomo’s kami was renamed Shirahata Daimyōjin and enshrined in Shirahata Shrine. Shirahata means “white flag”. This is a reference to the Minamoto flag. The area where the Hokke-dō stood was declared a national Historic Site.
The gorintō we see today was brought here by Tsurugaoka Shōgon-in’s chief priest. It came from the ruins of Shōchōju-in during the Meiji period. In 1795, a document mentions Yoritomo’s funerary mound north of the Ōkura Bakufu. Locals were pleased that repairs were planned. The first mention of a gorintō is from 1814.
Every year on April 13, the Festival at the Tomb of Minamoto no Yoritomo is held here. A representative of the Shimazu clan comes from Kyūshū. Their founder Shimazu Tadahisa is buried nearby.
Yoritomo’s Mound Stele stands as a reminder of a pivotal figure. He shaped Japan’s history. His legacy echoes through the centuries. A steep stairway near Yoritomo’s grave leads to the graves of Shimazu Tadahisa, Mōri Suemitsu, and Ōe no Hiromoto. Ōe no Hiromoto was a chief vassal. He greatly contributed to the shogunate’s administrative structure. Shimazu Tadahisa was Yoritomo’s illegitimate son. He founded the Shimazu clan. Mōri Suemitsu was Ōe no Hiromoto’s son. He died with the Miura clan at the Hokke-dō in 1247. Their graves are carved into the hillside and are still tended to.
Yagura, caves used as graves, enshrine the souls of the Miura clan. They died during the siege of the Hokke-dō. Yoritomo’s Mound Stele and its surroundings tell a layered story. It involves power, loyalty, and sacrifice. It is a place where history truly comes alive.