William Fraser’s Bungalow/Office of CAO, Northern Railway

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“White Mughal.” That’s what some called William Fraser. William Fraser’s Bungalow stands as a testament to a fascinating life. This building now serves as the Office of CAO, Northern Railway. But its story goes much deeper.

William Fraser was a British civil servant. He lived during British rule and the reign of Bahadur Shah Zafar. He served as Commissioner of the Delhi Territory.

Fraser was deeply influenced by Mughal culture. He even commissioned artwork showcasing Mughal life. This artwork is known as the Fraser Album.

William Fraser’s Bungalow was built around 1803. It sits near Kashmere Gate behind St James Church. The bungalow’s design reflects Indo-Saracenic style also known as Indo-Gothic or Hindu-Gothic. The bungalow consists of two structures joined.

Interestingly William Fraser’s Bungalow sits atop a tykhana. A tykhana is like a dungeon. This one has three tunnels. One tunnel led to the Red Fort. Another went to the Yamuna River. The third ended in the bungalow’s campus. These tunnels served a secret purpose. They allowed sepoys and prisoners to move unseen. Some were even executed here. Their bodies were disposed of in the Yamuna.

The Yamuna River once flowed closer to the bungalow. Its waters reached the dungeons. Today a dank odor still lingers. A lit portion of a tunnel is accessible behind the bungalow.

The revolt of 1857 caused damage to William Fraser’s Bungalow. Restorations led to alterations in its architecture. In 1998 it received the DDA’s Adaptive Urban Heritage award.

Tragedy struck William Fraser near his home. In 1835 Kureem Khan assassinated him. Shamsuddin Ahmed Khan hired the assassin. Shamsuddin was angry over a property dispute. William Fraser had supported Shamsuddin’s brother’s claims. Shamsuddin paid the ultimate price and was hanged for the crime.

William Fraser was first buried locally. Later Colonel James Skinner reburied him. His final resting place is at St James Church. Skinner also built the church.

William Dalrymple visited William Fraser’s Bungalow. He wrote about it in his book “City of Djinns.” This shows the bungalow’s continued historical interest.

So, while it’s now an office building remember the story of William Fraser. Remember the “White Mughal”. Remember the secrets hidden beneath.

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