Around us looms a massive obelisk. This is the Wellington Monument, Dublin. It commemorates Arthur Wellesley, the 1st Duke of Wellington. Let’s delve into the story of this towering structure.
The Wellington Monument stands tall in Phoenix Park. It overlooks Kilmainham and the River Liffey. At 62 metres, it’s the largest obelisk in Europe.
Originally, Merrion Square was the intended location. Residents opposed it so Phoenix Park became the site. The foundation stone was laid in 1817. The Wellington Monument was designed by Sir Robert Smirke.
There were grand plans. A statue of Wellington on horseback was to stand on a pedestal. But funds ran short. The pedestal stood unfinished for decades. People felt it looked like an insult. After Wellington’s death in 1852, there was renewed urgency to complete the Wellington Monument. Eventually, only bronze plaques were installed. The pedestal was removed. The Wellington Monument finally opened to the public in 1861.
Look closely at the base. You’ll see four bronze plaques. They were cast from cannons captured at Waterloo. Three depict scenes from Wellington’s life. The fourth bears an inscription. It reads, “Asia and Europe, saved by thee, proclaim invincible in war thy deathless name. Now round thy brow the civic oak we twine that every earthly glory may be thine.”
The plaques showcase different aspects of Wellington’s career. “Civil and Religious Liberty” is by John Hogan. “Waterloo” is by Thomas Farrell. “Indian Wars” is by Joseph Robinson Kirk.
Interestingly, the Wellington Monument appears in James Joyce’s “Finnegans Wake.” The novel alludes to a giant with his head at Howth Castle and his toes in Phoenix Park. Some interpret the obelisk as the giant’s male member. The Wellington Monument becomes the “Willingdone Museyroom” in the book.
Arthur Wellesley, though born in Ireland, identified as British. He even changed the spelling of his name. He wanted to differentiate himself from his brother. Despite his preference, the Irish claimed him. This may have saved the Wellington Monument from demolition after independence.
Unlike the Boyne Obelisk, the Wellington Monument wasn’t seen as a symbol of English oppression. It celebrated the man, not the regime. Dublin once had Nelson’s Pillar. It commemorated the victor of Trafalgar. The IRA bombed and demolished it in 1966.
The Wellington Monument, however, survived. Its location in Phoenix Park helped. It was associated with leisure and pleasure. Nelson’s Pillar loomed over the city’s daily life.
The Wellington Monument was once the tallest obelisk in the world. But the Bunker Hill Obelisk in the USA was completed later and made taller.
So, here we stand. In front of the Wellington Monument. It’s a testament to a complex history. It’s a landmark that has survived controversies. It’s a prominent feature of Dublin’s skyline.