Ever wondered about a temple that houses a network of tunnels? That’s Wat Umong. Welcome to Wat Umong, the Temple of the Tunnels. It is a unique and fascinating 700-year-old Buddhist forest temple. Wat Umong sits against the mountains of the Suthep range. You will find it just outside Chiang Mai.
Founded in 1297 by King Mengrai, Wat Umong has a rich history. King Mengrai consulted a monk who lived at Wat Umong. The monk, Thera Chan, meditated in a tunnel. As Chiang Mai grew, Thera Chan struggled to find peace. King Mengrai ordered tunnels dug in a forested area. These tunnels became Thera Chan’s new meditation space. Buddhist murals once adorned the tunnel walls, but most have disappeared.
Wat Umong was abandoned in the 15th century. It was later restored in the 1940s. In 1949, it became a center for meditation and Buddhist teachings. The disuse explains its overgrown appearance. Today, Wat Umong is an active temple with resident monks.
Notice the scattered Buddha images as you approach the tunnels. These broken images were rescued from abandoned temples. Devotees continue to add to the collection. You’ll also find ‘talking trees’ displaying Buddhist proverbs. These signs share wisdom in both Thai and English. Consider these: “Love is divine, lust is devil” and “Nothing is permanent. Things go in and go out”.
The tunnels themselves are a maze-like system. Within these tunnels, you’ll discover meditation cells and Buddha images. Legend says King Mengrai built the tunnels to keep Thera Chan from wandering off. The walls were painted with bush scenes. Whether true or not, the tunnels add to Wat Umong’s mysterious atmosphere.
Above the tunnels stands a large, bell-shaped chedi. This Lanna-style stupa has been restored. The front staircase features Naga snakes. It leads to monks’ cells and out-buildings.
Explore the library museum. It contains books on Buddhism and historic objects. You’ll also find Buddhist art. Near the museum, see reproductions of ancient Indian Buddhist sculptures. A school of Pali language is also on site. Monks’ living quarters are scattered in the forest.
Take time to explore the grounds beyond the mound and pagoda. A footpath leads to a small lake. It is a peaceful place to relax. You can feed the fish, ducks, and turtles. Food is available from local vendors.
Wat Umong’s serene setting makes it perfect for meditation. Meditation activities began after the temple’s restoration. The Meditation and International Buddhist Education Center opened in 2005. It spreads Buddhism among Thais and foreigners. Wat Umong offers Vipassana and Anapanasati meditation methods.
You can chat with English-speaking monks on Sundays. These Dhamma talks occur at the Chinese pavilion near the pond. Monks discuss Buddhism and answer questions. Wat Umong provides a welcome change from Chiang Mai’s more visited sites. The temple’s grounds are often filled with the sounds of monks chanting. It is a tranquil site worth your trip.