Standing here, right in front of Wat Suwannakhiri, also known as Wat Khi Lek, you can imagine the clash of cultures that shaped its existence. This temple is older than Bangkok itself, having been built during the reign of King Narai in the late Ayutthaya period, around 1685. But what makes its location so unique?
It sits at the confluence of two canals, Khlong Bangkok Noi and Khlong Chak Phra. Thai beliefs held that this location was unsuitable for a temple, as the meeting of waterways was seen as a source of evil. But Wat Suwannakhiri defied these ancient traditions! In defiance, they placed a standing Buddha image, specifically chosen to calm the ocean, in a pavilion at the confluence. This was their way of saying “No, we’ll be here!”
The temple’s name changed when King Rama I’s younger brother Prince Maha Sura Singhanat renovated it in 1795. He named it Wat Suwannakhiri, meaning “Golden Mountain Temple.” The golden glow of the chedi at sunset truly reflects its name.
Wat Suwannakhiri may be known as a place of tranquility, but its past is a little more…dramatic. The temple was once known as “Wat Thong,” meaning “Golden Monastery,” but with no tangible evidence of who built it. Later, under the rule of King Taksin of the Thonburi Kingdom, it was repurposed—as an execution ground for Burmese war prisoners. Yes, this peaceful spot has a history of war and death, but the temple’s resilience is inspiring. Today, it’s a place of Buddhist meditation, a haven for the local community, and a tribute to the enduring spirit of Bangkok.