“Victory Pavilion Temple”—that’s what Wat Phlapphla Chai means. The name itself hints at a fascinating past. Let’s delve into the story of this temple.
Wat Phlapphla Chai is on Luang Road in Bangkok. It sits in the Pom Prap Sattru Phai district. This temple has witnessed centuries of Bangkok’s evolution.
Originally, this temple was known as Wat Khok. That was way back in the Ayutthaya period. Over time, it gained a rather grim reputation. The area around Wat Khok served as execution grounds. Imagine the countless souls who met their end here. Skeletons were frequently unearthed.
King Mongkut built forts along Khlong Phadung Krung Kasem canal. One of these forts stood near Wat Khok. It was named Pom Prap Sattru Phai. The district takes its name from this fort.
King Vajiravudh later renamed Wat Khok to Wat Phlapphla Chai. He used the temple grounds as a training field. His Wild Tiger Corps drilled here. The new name honored King Phutthayotfa Chulalok. He was also known as Rama I. Before becoming king, he was Chao Phraya Maha Kasat Suek. He set up his pavilion here after a war against the Khmers in 1782.
Phlappla Chai Road came to life during King Chulalongkorn’s reign. The road’s construction faced an obstacle. The Meng Soon Building stood in the way. Its owner, under French protection, refused to give up the land.
A Chinese businessman, Hong Taechawanit, stepped in. He donated his mansion to the government. Today, that site is the Phlapphlachai Police Station.
In 1974, Phlapphla Chai became the site of the “Chinatown Riots.” It was a dark day in the area’s history. What started as a simple arrest escalated quickly. A taxi driver resisted police for illegal parking. Crowds gathered. The situation spiraled out of control. Riots erupted, spreading to nearby areas. Public places were burned. Bombs exploded. Gunfire echoed through the streets. The government declared a state of emergency. Soldiers and police quelled the riots. The incident left 26 dead and over 120 injured.
Phlapphla Chai remains a vibrant part of Bangkok’s Chinatown. It’s home to many Thai-Chinese residents. You will find many restaurants and street food vendors here. Some have even earned Michelin Guide recognition.
Wat Phlapphla Chai stands as a testament to Bangkok’s layered history. From execution grounds to royal training fields, it’s a place where echoes of the past resonate with the present.