Wat Nantaram

Could ghosts of lacquerware artisans still roam these grounds? We stand before Wat Nantaram in Chiang Mai, a temple intertwined with the art of lacquerware. Wat Nantaram isn’t just a place of worship. It’s a living testament to a community of artisans, a historical echo of a craft brought here by Tai Khün people from Kengtung in the early 19th century. King Kawila, in his campaign to repopulate Chiang Mai, relocated these skilled artisans. They made their home around Wat Nantaram. This temple became the heart of their community, their skills shaping its identity. A marble plaque near the main viharn whispers tales of Wat Nantaram’s past, dating back to the 16th century during the reign of King Muang Kaew. Long before the vibrant lacquerware community, the area housed a Lawa settlement amidst a bamboo grove. The temple grounds hold several viharns, a Ho Tham, and a beautiful gate, marking its active role in the community’s life. Imagine the visit of Ernest Satow in 1886. This British diplomat, riding through Chiang Mai, documented his encounter with the lacquerware artisans at Wat Nantaram. He noted their distinct accent and their forced migration, a stark reminder of the customs of the time. Sadly, the vibrant lacquerware tradition is fading. Few workshops remain in the neighborhood. The shop of Khun Phrateuang Somsak, a renowned lacquerware artisan, stands as a poignant reminder of this decline. While the Wualai community still holds an annual Silver and Lacquerware Festival, the craft itself has nearly vanished from its birthplace. Hope flickers in the form of the Vichaikul Lacquerware shop opposite Wat Nantaram. This modern establishment, run by Patchara Sirijancheun and Chakrit Suwanchompoo, acts as a wholesaler, distributing work to the few remaining artisans. They keep the spirit of Wat Nantaram’s lacquerware legacy alive. Wat Nantaram stands as more than just a temple. It is a repository of history and a testament to a unique community. As you explore the grounds, remember the hands that shaped its story and the vibrant colors of a fading art.