Imagine, for a moment, a hidden camp amidst ancient temples. That’s part of the story of Wat Kluay. This active monastery sits just off Ayutthaya’s city island. It is on the eastern side, in the Kramang sub-district.
Wat Kluay, also known as the Banana Monastery, has a history shrouded in mystery. Its exact construction date remains unknown. However, historical records offer glimpses into its past.
In December 1766, Luang Saraseni and his followers camped here. This event is documented in the Royal Chronicles of Ayutthaya. It was a time of great upheaval. The Phraya of Tak, later King Taksin, played a crucial role. King Ekathat promoted him to Phraya Kamphaeng Phet. He was then tasked to assemble a boat army at Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon. The goal was to confront the Burmese forces southeast of Ayutthaya.
Phraya Kamphaeng Phet appointed the Phraya of Phetburi as his front guard. Luang Saraseni’s troops supported them. The front guard, with five fighting boats, engaged the enemy. The Burmese quickly encircled the Phraya of Phetburi’s boats. Phraya Kamphaeng Phet and Luang Saraseni watched. They didn’t advance to help. The Phraya of Phetburi’s troops were defeated and he was killed.
Phraya Kamphaeng Phet and Luang Saraseni fled. They didn’t return to the capital. Instead, they established stockades near Wat Phichai and the adjacent Wat Kluay. Phraya Kamphaeng Phet, who later became King Taksin, sought fortune in the south. Luang Saraseni went his own way.
Wat Kluay itself is a relatively small monastic complex. The ordination hall faces the Pa Sak River. It is aligned in a classic east-west direction. Built in the late Ayutthaya style, the ubosot features two elevated porches. Each porch has four columns. These support the two-tiered roof. Each porch also has two entries. The southern and northern walls each have three rectangular windows. An inner wall surrounds the structure. This is called Kamphaeng Kaeo. It separates the monastic and secular worlds.
The temple appears on old maps. Valentyn’s map from the early 18th century identifies it as Wat Kloy. The map is titled “Groote Siamse Rievier Me-Nam Of Te Moeder Der Wateren In haren loop met de vallende Spruyten Verbeeld.” It also appears on a 19th-century map. Phraya Boran Rachathanin’s map from 1926 also marks Wat Kluay.
Today, Wat Kluay continues as an active temple. Its geographical coordinates are 14° 21′ 2.72″ N, 100° 34′ 57.07″ E.
Wat Kluay stands as a testament to Ayutthaya’s rich history. It has witnessed battles and the rise of kings. Its walls have stories to tell. As you stand here, remember the soldiers who once sought refuge. Think of the maps that documented its existence. Wat Kluay connects us to the past. It is a place of peace and reflection.