Did you ever hear about a temple born from an unusual source? We are standing before Wat Khanika Phon. This temple’s story is as unique as its architecture. Wat Khanika Phon stands as a testament to atonement and devotion.
Wat Khanika Phon’s origins trace back to Madam Faeng. She was a brothel owner in the 19th century. Despite her profession, Faeng was a devout Buddhist. She decided to use funds from her brothel to construct this temple.
Initially, the temple had no official name. Locals simply called it “Madam Faeng’s Temple”. Later, Madam Faeng’s descendants renovated the temple. They then petitioned King Chulalongkorn for an official name. The King bestowed the name Khanikaphon. It means “the temple which was the result of the prostitutes’ contributions”.
Interestingly, when Madam Faeng opened the temple, she invited Father To to deliver a sermon. Father To was a highly respected monk. Faeng hoped he would praise her contribution. However, Father To’s address was not what she expected. He said that the money, earned from prostitution, was “sinful money”. For every pound contributed, she would only gain a shilling of merit.
Despite the monk’s words, Wat Khanika Phon became a place of public religious activities. It remains open to the public to this day.
Look closely at the ubosot, or ordination hall. Notice the dark green tiles that adorn the window frames. Also observe the carved wooden grills framing the porches. Some say these details, resembling tied curtains, are meant to evoke the curtains of Madam Faeng’s brothel.
Next to the ubosot is a simpler wiharn. Inside, you’ll find a Buddha image with a rather Western appearance. Behind the wiharn, a covered gallery protects several Buddha images.
Wat Khanika Phon also houses many original objects. These date back to its establishment. You can still see the principal Buddha image, the Wiharn, a corridor, and a small stupa. Several lacquered gold leaf painted cupboards and the bell tower remain as well.
Inside the wall, you can find a half-figure of Madam Faeng covered in gold leaves. An inscription on its base reads: “This Wat Khanikaphon was established in 1833 by Madam Faeng”.
Wat Khanika Phon is a reminder that redemption can be found in unexpected places. It is also near Bangkok’s Chinatown and Wat Mangkon Kamalawat. You can find it at 416 Phlap Phla Chai Road. The temple is open daily from 9 am to 5 pm. As you leave, consider the story of Madam Faeng. She was a woman who sought to atone for her past. She created a lasting legacy in this unique temple.