Wat Choeng Krabue

“Thousands of them,” he whispered, his eyes wide with a mix of awe and unease. “Thousands of buffalo skulls, right here at Wat Choeng Krabue.” Wat Choeng Krabue, also known as the “Temple of the Buffalo Heads,” is not your typical Bangkok temple. While serene Buddha statues and ornate decorations are a common sight in Thailand, this temple offers a different kind of spectacle. The story of Wat Choeng Krabue is intertwined with the plight of the Asian water buffalo, an animal once integral to Thai agriculture. Since the 1980s, their numbers have plummeted from six million to a mere one and a half million. The reason for this decline is twofold: the mechanization of farming and the unfortunate popularity of buffalo meat as a delicacy. An eccentric monk, the head abbot of Wat Choeng Krabue, decided to create a memorial to these forgotten giants. His vision was a testament to their dwindling numbers and a reminder of their significance in Thai history. What began as a modest collection of donated skulls has transformed into a staggering display of over 10,000. Plans are even underway to construct a two-story museum dedicated to buffalo memorabilia, with an entrance grandly fashioned from – you guessed it – even more buffalo skulls. This unusual endeavor has sparked its share of controversy, particularly the abbot’s penchant for collecting vintage Mercedes Benz limousines, which he houses in a temple garage. However, the abbot argues it’s simply a haven for these beautiful machines, saving them from becoming scrap metal. He even utilizes them to provide mechanic training to novice monks. Wat Choeng Krabue stands as a testament to an animal’s legacy, a poignant reminder of the impact of change, and perhaps, a testament to one monk’s unique vision.