Listen closely. What if I told you that Wat Chang Kong holds secrets whispered by the wind and stories etched in fading murals?
Wat Chang Kong is a temple with a unique blend of Lanna and Chinese architectural styles. It dates back to 1357. Originally, it was called Wat Si Phun To. The temple is split into two sections by Loi Kroh Road.
Let’s start our exploration on the north side. This is where the main temple buildings stand. People come here to worship. Notice the unique Chinese-style ho trai. It is a script depository. This building is the temple’s standout feature. Murals once covered the upper floor. Sadly, they are now decayed.
The ho trai at Wat Chang Kong was built in 1903. Local Chinese residents built it. Its two stories showcase Chinese architectural style. Look closely. You can still see stucco and wood carvings. These details follow the Lanna art tradition. A mural painting once adorned the north wall of the second story. It depicted the story of Chao Suwata and Nang Bua Kam. This tale comes from the Panyasa Jataka. Time has faded these murals, making them hard to decipher.
Now, observe the viharn’s entrance. An impressive pair of nagas protects it. These mythical serpents snake along the balustrade. Two deva figures support the nagas. The gable end is richly decorated. Gilt foliate work covers it. In the middle is Erewan. This is the three-headed elephant and mount of the God Indra. Two nagas arch over the door. Blue mosaic glass decorates the door moldings. The roof is impressive. It has four interlocking layers. This creates a mass of gilt work. Many nagas run along the bargeboards. Each roof layer ends with a chofa bird’s head.
Inside the viharn, natural light fills the space. Large windows let in a welcome breeze. The roof is high. Additional cross struts support it well. Crimson is the color of choice. It is used on the tall supporting columns and matching tiles. Murals decorate the walls. They depict the previous lives of the Buddha. They also show the final ten Jatakas. The main altar holds numerous Buddha images. They are in the Subduing Mara pose. A Chinese porcelain figure stands here too. It is the Goddess of Mercy, Guan Yin. Celestials float in the sky behind.
Let’s cross Loi Kroh Road now. We are now at the south site. The Mae Ping Hotel maintains this area. Here, a small assembly hall and chedi are located. Take a moment to rest under the roof canopy. Admire the well-manicured gardens. The viharn here remains locked. The walls are mostly undecorated. Carved stucco work is visible over the front door. Nagas wind down the balustrades. Carved wooden panels form the gable end. A hamsa or swan tops the apex. The Lanna-style chedi has lost much of its whitewash. Niches on its four sides contain Buddha images. Lana decorative elements surround the top. A memorial stands next to the chedi. It honors a revered monk, Nan Yuan, who died in 1944.
Before we move on, remember Wat Chang Kong. It is a place where different artistic influences meet. It connects us to stories of the past. It offers a peaceful escape from the city.