Volkovo

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Is it a cemetery or a history book you ask yourself? Volkovo Cemetery whispers secrets of Saint Petersburg’s past. It is not just a burial ground. It’s a chronicle etched in stone.

Volkovo appeared in the early 18th century. It was linked to the Alexander Nevsky Monastery. In 1756, the Volkovskoye Cemetery was established near the village. Today, Volkovo is known for this cemetery of celebrated figures.

Empress Catherine the Great decreed a change. In 1771-1772, she banned burials in church crypts. New cemeteries were needed outside city limits. Overcrowding and disease spurred this decision. Volkovo Cemetery was founded in 1773. Johann Gebhard Brethfeld, a merchant, was the first to be buried here. Over 100,000 people have been buried here since then.

The cemetery evolved over time. Separate sections emerged for different faiths. Lutherans, Old Believers, and others found their final resting places here. The Volkovo Lutheran Cemetery became prominent.

By the 19th century, Volkovo became one of St. Petersburg’s largest cemeteries. A tradition emerged. Writers and artists were buried in the eastern part. Due to muddy paths, wooden boards were laid. These walkways became known as “Writer’s Walkways”.

Alexander Radischev, a social critic, was among the first. Vissarion Belinsky and Nikolay Dobrolyubov followed. The burial of Dmitry Pisarev cemented the area’s literary status.

Ivan Turgenev, Mikhail Saltykov-Shchedrin, and others joined them. Scientists like Dmitry Mendeleev and Ivan Pavlov were also interred here. In 1935, remains of other writers were moved here. The State Museum of Urban Sculpture took over care of the area. Now, over 500 tombs grace this section.

One church has survived the ravages of time. The Church of St. Job was built in 1887. It stands as a testament to faith and history.

The most remarkable area is the “Writer’s Walkways”. Here lie Russian and Soviet literary giants. Musicians, actors, scientists, and public figures also rest here. On the opposite side of the Volkovka River sits the Lutheran Cemetery.

A curious episode unfolded at the end of the 20th century. Discussions arose about moving Lenin’s body here. A memorial to the Ulyanov family already existed. Despite the plans falling through many looked for Lenin’s secret tomb at Volkovo Cemetery.

Today, Volkovo Cemetery is accessible via the Volkovskaya metro station. You can walk along Volkovkskiy Prospekt. The Lutheran Cemetery sits to the right. The Orthodox Cemetery and Writer’s Walkways lie further along.

As you wander through Volkovo, remember its layers. It began as a pauper’s cemetery. It became a final resting place for luminaries. It remains a place of reflection and remembrance.

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