“Did you know that this very building once housed a king?” I ask. Welcome to the Tzistarakis Mosque. This unassuming structure in Monastiraki Square holds centuries of history.
Built in 1759 it was commissioned by the Ottoman governor Mustapha Agha Tzistarakis. Legend whispers he used a column from Hadrian’s Library for lime. This act was considered sacrilegious. It supposedly brought a plague upon Athens. He was dismissed. The Tzistarakis Mosque was initially known as the “Mosque of the Lower Fountain” or “Mosque of the Lower Market”. Its location near the Ancient Agora explains these names.
During the Greek War of Independence the Tzistarakis Mosque served as an assembly hall. After Greek independence its uses were many. It was a ballroom a barracks a prison and even a warehouse. In March 1834 it hosted a ball to honor King Otto of Greece. Imagine the elegant gowns and lively music filling these very rooms.
In 1915 architect Anastasios Orlandos oversaw its partial rebuilding. It became home to the Museum of Greek Handwork. This later became the National Museum of Decorative Arts. The Tzistarakis Mosque held this museum until 1973. In 1966 it was temporarily refurbished. This was for the deposed King of Saudi Arabia Saud’s prayers during his visit. In 1973 the main museum moved to Kydathinaion Street. However the Tzistarakis Mosque remained an annex. The V Kyriazopoulos pottery collection stayed here. An earthquake damaged it in 1981. It reopened in 1991.
Today the Tzistarakis Mosque is an annex of the Museum of Modern Greek Culture. Its history echoes through its walls. It is a testament to Athens’ vibrant and ever-changing past. It’s more than just a building it’s a living story. A story that continues to unfold.