Tughlakabad

Who could have imagined such a fate for Tughlakabad? This imposing fortress, built by Ghiyasuddin Tughlaq in 1321, was meant to be a symbol of strength and prosperity. Tughlaqabad was to be the heart of his new capital, a city designed to withstand the Mongol invaders. The fort, a masterpiece of military architecture, boasts massive sloping walls, reinforced by circular bastions. These walls, reaching heights of 10 to 15 meters, enclosed a city complete with palaces, residential areas, and even seven rainwater tanks. Tughlaqabad was a city planned on a grand scale, divided into three distinct sections: the city area, the citadel with its Bijai-Mandal tower, and the palace area. But the story of Tughlakabad is not just one of architectural marvel. It’s also a story of ambition, curses, and a clash of wills. Ghiyasuddin Tughlaq, driven by his vision, demanded all laborers in Delhi work on his fort. This decree brought him into conflict with the revered Sufi saint, Nizamuddin Auliya. The saint, also engaged in construction, found his work hampered by the labor shortage. Legend claims that workers toiled on the fort by day and secretly on the saint’s baoli (stepwell) by night. When Tughlaq cut off the oil supply to halt the nighttime work, Nizamuddin Auliya miraculously transformed the water in his well into oil. Enraged, the saint cursed Tughlaqabad, proclaiming, “Ya rahe ujjar ya base gujjar” – either it will remain desolate or occupied by nomadic herdsmen. Another legend tells of Tughlaq’s campaign in Bengal. Upon hearing of the laborers’ defiance, he vowed to punish the saint. But as Tughlaq returned victorious, Nizamuddin Auliya uttered another curse: “Hunuz Dilli dur ast” – Delhi is still far off. In a tragic twist of fate, a pavilion erected to celebrate Tughlaq’s triumph collapsed, killing him and his son. Today, Tughlakabad stands as a silent testament to this dramatic tale. The ruins, though overgrown and partially inaccessible, still evoke a sense of awe. The connected tomb of Ghiyasuddin Tughlaq, a beautiful structure of red sandstone and marble, adds another layer to the fort’s story. Tughlaqabad. A city built on dreams, now haunted by whispers of curses and the weight of history. It remains a captivating reminder of the fleeting nature of power and the enduring power of belief.