Imagine a watchtower rising from a small hill. That is Torre da Pena. This tower, declared an Asset of Cultural Interest, stands strategically guarding the plain of A Limia.
Welcome to Torre da Pena. We are transported back to a time of territorial disputes and strategic defenses. Torre da Pena, also known as Torre da Portela or Porteliña, has witnessed centuries of history. Its origins trace back to the 12th century. This was a time when Galicia and Portugal frequently clashed over territory.
The tower’s location was carefully chosen. Its difficult access and commanding views made it an ideal fortress. Torre da Pena was part of a network of fortifications, including O Castro in Sandiás and A Forxa in Porqueira, ensuring control over the Limia plain.
One of Torre da Pena’s early lords was Ruy Páez de Biedma. He held the tower in the early 14th century. Over the years, the monument experienced numerous historical events. One notable event was a strong attack by the Duke of Lancaster.
The ownership of Torre da Pena eventually fell to the House of Monterrei. This was until Francisca de Zúñiga, daughter of the Count of Monterrei, married a member of the House of Lemos. The two families engaged in lengthy disputes over their properties. The House of Lemos ultimately won.
Until the mid-18th century, Torre da Pena remained in good condition. It served as both a residence for the judge and a prison. However, once it stopped serving these functions, Torre da Pena fell into disrepair.
Today, only the tribute tower and some sections of the outer wall remain. The perimeter wall still features a narrow east-facing window. Inside, remnants of several buildings can be seen on the northwest side, suggesting that this area was once the most inhabited part of the enclosure. Recent archaeological excavations have revealed that these remains were once part of a larger fortress that is yet to be fully defined.
Despite the ravages of time, Torre da Pena remains an impressive structure. It stands almost twenty meters tall. Inside, three stories are covered by barrel vaults. The entrance door is raised above the ground. This design was a defensive strategy. Access to the interior is only possible with a wooden ladder. Floral ornaments and a barely legible shield adorn the pointed arch of the doorway. Above this door, a second, very similar one opens higher up. On the other sides, gaps open up. These gaps provided defensive functionality.
Local legends surround Torre da Pena. One legend claims that an underground passage once provided access to the tower, explaining the disappearance of the stairs that once led to the entrance. The disappearance of the stairs that gave access to the entrance door made the popular imagination forge the legend that to enter the tower there was an underground passage.
Friar Gabriel Téllez, better known as Tirso de Molina, mentions Limia and the Portela tower in his work “La gallega Mari Hernandez”. Another legend suggests that Inés de Castro was born in this region. Tradition places her birth at Torre da Pena. She was the daughter of Pedro Fernández de Castro, from the House of Lemos. Aldonza Soares de Valladares, whose family owned properties in Xinzo de Limia, was her mother.
Torre da Pena is easily accessible by road from the center of A Pena. Visiting the exterior of the tower is free. The site is currently undergoing research and development. As we conclude our visit to Torre da Pena, remember the echoes of the past.