Lost in thought and time, who could imagine that this tranquil temple holds the key to understanding a pivotal era in Japan’s history? This is Tōji-in. It is a Buddhist temple of the Rinzai Tenryū sect. Tōji-in is not just another temple. It is one of two funeral temples dedicated to Ashikaga Takauji. He was the first shōgun of the Ashikaga dynasty.
Let’s step back in time to 1341. Ashikaga Takauji himself founded Tōji-in at the foot of Mount Kinugasa. He was guided by Musō Soseki. Musō Soseki was a famous Zen teacher, calligraphist, poet and garden designer. Soseki designed the Zen gardens and ponds here. Tōji-in later became the Ashikaga dynasty’s funeral temple. All fifteen Ashikaga shōguns are buried here.
The temple’s name became one of Takauji’s posthumous names Tōji-inden. Tōji-in was number one of the Kyoto Jissetsu. These temples ranked just below the Kyoto Gozan. The Gozan were within the Five Mountain System. This was a nationwide network of Zen temples.
However, Tōji-in’s story is not without its darker chapters. Because of its association with the Ashikaga, Emperor’s supporters considered them traitors. They had usurped imperial power. During the Meiji Restoration, the temple sustained some damage. Thankfully, in recent years, Tōji-in has been restored. It is now a captivating tourist attraction.
Let us turn our attention to the Main Hall. It was originally a subtemple of Myōshin-ji. It was built in 1616 by order of samurai Fukushima Masanori. Musō Soseki also designed the garden, ponds and Seirentei tearoom. Tōji-in treasures a drawing of the temple. It is an Important Cultural Property.
Now, prepare yourselves for a rather intriguing tale from 1863. Nine men broke into the Reikō-den. This small building enshrines Tokugawa Ieyasu and all fifteen Ashikaga shōguns. The intruders stole the heads of the first three Ashikaga shōguns. These were Takauji, Yoshiakira and Yoshimitsu. This act was revenge for their role in usurping the emperor’s power. The severed heads were then exposed on the banks of the Kamo River. Placards listing their crimes against the nation accompanied them.
The sixteen statues in the Reikō-den are lined up in two rows. Each figure sits and carries a shaku. This symbolizes their shogunal power. The sculptors remain unknown. However, the statues have been dated to the early seventeenth century. Interestingly, Tokugawa Ieyasu’s statue stands among the Ashikaga shōguns. This suggests Tokugawa wished to link himself to the Ashikaga clan. He wanted to give an impression of continuity between the two dynasties. Like them, Ieyasu claimed to be a descendant of the Minamoto clan.
Tōji-in stands as a testament to resilience and reinvention. From its founding by Ashikaga Takauji to its modern-day restoration, this temple encapsulates centuries of Japanese history. It has Zen gardens, poignant stories and cultural treasures. Take a moment to reflect on the ebb and flow of power. Consider the artistic and spiritual legacy that defines Tōji-in.