Tōji-in Cemetery

Walking through the ancient gates of Tōji-in Cemetery, in Kita Ward, Kyoto, you’ll feel a sense of peace. The air is calm and the atmosphere serene. This is the final resting place of Ashikaga Takauji, the first shōgun of the Ashikaga dynasty. A renowned Zen teacher, calligraphist, poet, and garden designer Musō Soseki, designed the Zen gardens and ponds of the temple. In the early 17th century, sixteen statues were placed in the Reikō-den, a small building where the first fifteen shōguns of the Ashikaga dynasty are enshrined alongside Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the Tokugawa shogunate. There is also a statue of Ieyasu because he wished to link himself to the Ashikaga clan and give the impression of continuity between the two dynasties. Tōji-in Cemetery became the Ashikaga dynasty’s funeral temple and all fifteen Ashikaga shōguns are buried here. In 1863, nine men broke into the Reikō-den and stole the heads of the first three Ashikaga shōguns: Takauji, Yoshiakira, and Yoshimitsu. They did this as a form of revenge for their role in usurping the emperor’s power during the Nanboku-chō period. The severed heads were then exposed on the banks of the Kamo River together with placards listing their crimes against the nation. The cemetery is a beautiful place with many ancient trees and stone lanterns. It is also a place of great historical significance, a reminder of Japan’s rich and complex past. The cemetery is peaceful yet full of rich history. Even though it is quiet, it is a popular spot for tourists and locals alike. It’s a chance to learn about the Ashikaga dynasty and think about the long history of this powerful family.