“Dig deep, store grain, don’t claim to be an emperor.” These fading slogans echo in my mind as we stand before an unassuming shopfront. This is one of the original entrances to Beijing’s Underground City.
This isn’t just any network of tunnels. The Underground City is a relic of the Cold War, a subterranean world built in anticipation of nuclear war. Imagine a vast shelter beneath Beijing, a labyrinthine complex spanning 85 square kilometers. That’s larger than many cities. They also called it the Underground Great Wall because of its vastness and military defense.
In 1969, Chairman Mao Zedong ordered its construction. Tensions between China and the Soviet Union were high. They were worried about nuclear attacks. The Underground City was designed to withstand nuclear, biochemical, and conventional attacks. Its purpose was to protect Beijing’s population. It was also meant to allow government officials to evacuate in case of an attack.
Construction lasted a decade from 1969 to 1979. Over 300,000 local citizens volunteered to dig the tunnels. Some portions were dug without heavy machinery. Centuries-old city walls were destroyed to supply materials for the complex. It was a massive undertaking.
They equipped the Underground City with everything needed for survival. Restaurants, clinics, schools, and theaters were built. Factories, a roller skating rink, and warehouses were included. There were even facilities for growing mushrooms. Almost 70 potential sites for water wells were prepared.
Elaborate ventilation systems were installed. 2,300 shafts could be sealed off to protect inhabitants from poison gases. Gas and waterproof hatches were constructed. Thick concrete gates protected the tunnels from biochemical attacks and nuclear fallout. It was designed to be self-sufficient.
Rumor had it that every residence had a secret trapdoor leading to the tunnels. The plan was to move half of Beijing’s population underground in case of a nuclear attack. The other half would evacuate to the Western Hills. It was a city beneath a city.
The Underground City was opened to tourists in 2000. Visitors could see signposts to major landmarks accessible via the tunnels. Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City were among them. Chambers labeled with their original functions were visible. Cinemas, hospitals, and arsenals could be seen. A portrait of Mao Zedong hung amidst murals of volunteers digging the tunnels. It was a glimpse into a unique moment in history.
Sadly, the Underground City has been closed for renovation since 2008. Its future remains uncertain. Yet, the tunnels remain. They stand as a testament to a time of fear. They are a symbol of a nation’s determination to survive. While it was open, the Underground City was popular with foreign tourists but remained virtually forgotten by local citizens.