Have you ever felt dwarfed by a building? St Johann Baptist in Essen does that to you. It stands tall and proud on Kettwiger Strasse. This Gothic hall church dedicated to John the Baptist is often mistaken for part of the Essen Minster. Its spire even towers over the Minster itself. The church’s impressive size is quite deceiving.
St Johann Baptist boasts a history stretching back to the tenth century. It started as a small chapel belonging to Essen Abbey. Theophanu Abbess of Essen who died in 1058 mentioned candles to be burnt in her memory ad sanctum Iohannem. This is believed to be the earliest record of the church. The dedication to John the Baptist suggests its original purpose was as a baptistry.
Archaeological digs after World War II uncovered the foundations of this original chapel. In 1264 Abbess Berta von Arnsberg elevated the chapel’s status to a filial parish church of the Abbey. It became a meeting place for the Abbey’s male canons. They performed sacred rites only men could perform for the women of the Abbey.
The church underwent a significant transformation in 1471. It was rebuilt as a Gothic hall church. A rectangular east choir was added. Baroque furnishings including choir stalls side altars and a pulpit were added between 1699 and 1768. The pulpit was later replaced by a Rococo style one in 1769. The church received renovations and repainting in 1968.
A true hidden gem is the high altar. It’s a masterpiece of art history. Originally a side altar of Essen Abbey it features four altar tables created by Barthel Bruyn the Elder between 1522 and 1525. These paintings depict the life of Jesus. Incredibly each table is painted on both sides. The Descent from the Cross is particularly noteworthy. It depicts a Central European city instead of Jerusalem providing the oldest known image of Essen itself.
St Johann Baptist also houses a remarkable set of bells. Cast in 1787 by Henricus and Everhardus Petit they survived being seized for the war effort in 1917 and 1940. Their inscription Henricus et Everhardus Petit me fuderunt anno 1787 reveals their origin from the Petit & Gebr Edelbrock bell foundry still operating in Gescher today. These bells aren’t just decorative. They chime with the Minster’s peal creating a unique soundscape over the city.
From its humble beginnings as a small chapel to its current status as a significant Gothic hall church St Johann Baptist stands as a testament to Essen’s rich history. It quietly stands there a symbol of faith and resilience. Its imposing presence and fascinating history make it a must-see for any visitor to Essen. This church offers so much more than meets the eye. Take a moment to appreciate the details. Let the history wash over you.