Spaso House

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What if these walls could talk? They would tell tales of lavish parties, diplomatic tensions, and a boozy bear. This is Spaso House. It stands on Spasopeskovskaya Square. For decades, it has been the residence of the U.S. Ambassador to Russia. But its story begins long before that.

In 1913, Nikolay Vtorov, a textile industrialist, commissioned this mansion. He hired architects Vladimir Adamovich and Vladimir Mayat. They built it in the neoclassical style. The Vtorov family moved in just before World War I.

After the Bolshevik Revolution, the Soviet government seized Spaso House. For a time, it served as a residence for Soviet diplomats. Then, in 1933, the United States finally recognized the Soviet Union. The first American ambassador, William C. Bullitt, arrived in Moscow. He chose Spaso House as his temporary residence.

Bullitt loved the house. It had plenty of space for parties. It even had American-style heating. He negotiated a three-year lease. Spaso House became the permanent ambassador’s residence.

The U.S. government added a ballroom in 1935. This provided even more space for entertaining. Bullitt’s parties at Spaso House became legendary.

One Christmas party featured seals from the Moscow Zoo. The seals balanced a Christmas tree and champagne. The trainer passed out drunk and the seals roamed free.

But the Spring Festival of 1935 was the most famous. Bullitt wanted a party that Moscow had never seen. The decorations included birch trees. There were also tulips and a lawn of chicory. An aviary held pheasants and zebra finches. Mountain goats, roosters, and a baby bear also attended.

Four hundred guests came. They included Soviet leaders and the writer Mikhail Bulgakov. The bear drank champagne given to him by Karl Radek. Later it vomited on a general. Bulgakov later used the party as inspiration for a ball in “The Master and Margarita”.

After 1935, Soviet-American relations cooled. Bullitt held no more big parties. In 1936, Joseph E. Davies became the new ambassador. He and his wife made repairs to Spaso House. They installed American bathtubs. They also discovered microphones hidden in the house.

During World War II, Spaso House was damaged by German bombing. Most of the American staff evacuated. A small team kept the embassy running. The house became an office, dormitory, and hotel. Guests included Harry Hopkins and Dwight Eisenhower.

In 1945, Soviet Young Pioneers presented a wooden plaque to the ambassador. It contained a hidden listening device. It wasn’t discovered until 1952.

Tensions increased during the Cold War. Spaso House residents felt isolated. But after Stalin’s death, relations began to improve. Nikita Khrushchev even attended 4th of July receptions.

In 1972, President Richard Nixon visited Spaso House. He announced the SALT 1 agreement. The pianist Van Cliburn performed. Other famous musicians followed, including Leonard Bernstein and Ray Charles.

In 1988, Dave Brubeck played for President Ronald Reagan and Mikhail Gorbachev. In 1991, Boris Yeltsin attended the Fourth of July reception. The Soviet Union collapsed soon after.

After the Soviet Union, President Bill Clinton visited Spaso House several times. In 2002, George W. Bush came to commemorate a treaty signing.

Spaso House has hosted events symbolizing improved relations. These included a reception for WWII veterans and a ceremony honoring the Apollo-Soyuz mission. In 2010, an Enchanted Ball recalled Bullitt’s famous Spring Festival.

Spaso House is more than just a building. It is a stage for diplomacy, a witness to history. Its walls hold secrets and stories. They whisper of grand parties, intense negotiations, and the ever-changing relationship between Russia and the United States.

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