A hushed reverence hangs in the air. Welcome to Soken-in temple a sanctuary steeped in the echoes of history.
Soken-in temple isn’t just any temple. It’s a sub-temple of the grand Daitoku-ji one of Kyoto’s largest Zen temples. Founded in 1583 by Toyotomi Hideyoshi it serves as the mortuary temple for the legendary Oda Nobunaga. Imagine the weight of that legacy.
Nobunaga’s life was cut short. He died in the Honno-ji Incident. His body was never found. Hideyoshi commissioned two life-sized wooden statues. One was cremated a poignant substitute for the missing body. The other now stands as the principal image of Soken-in temple a magnificent lacquered statue. This statue an important cultural property gazes down with inlaid eyes. Its expression is said to be haughty.
The temple holds more than just a statue. It houses three tea rooms. This highlights Soken-in’s connection to the tea ceremony. The temple’s founder Kokei Sochin was the Zen master of Sen-no-Rikyu the master who perfected the Japanese tea ceremony. It’s a fascinating link.
Sadly not all of Soken-in temple’s original buildings survive. Many were destroyed during the Meiji Restoration’s anti-Buddhist movement. They were rebuilt in the 1920s. The main hall for example dates to 1928. But some original structures remain. The main gate and the bell tower a designated Important Cultural Property stand as testaments to the past.
Explore the grounds of Soken-in. You’ll find the graves of Nobunaga and his family. Admire the unique “mother and child wall” a double wall with a hollow space and roof. It’s an unusual construction. Notice the Wabisuke camellia a tree over 400 years old. This is said to be Japan’s oldest Wabisuke camellia.
Soken-in temple may not be as visually striking as some other temples in Kyoto. It lacks the sprawling Zen gardens. Yet its history its connection to powerful figures and the peacefulness of its atmosphere make it a worthwhile destination. It holds a silent story. It whispers of power and loss of faith and remembrance. A story you now carry with you.