Seongbuk-dong

Hidden within Seoul’s embrace lies Seongbuk-dong, a neighborhood steeped in history and brimming with captivating stories. Seongbuk-dong translates to “neighborhood north of the city wall,” a name that speaks to its location along the northern section of the Seoul City Wall, at the foot of Mount Bugak. Seongbuk-dong’s story begins in the Joseon Dynasty, in the 18th and 19th centuries, when Seoul started to expand beyond its ancient walls. Initially a haven for a mere 70 houses, including villas of wealthy noblemen and homes of commoners, Seongbuk-dong’s population has blossomed to nearly 20,000. The area transformed from a tranquil, tree-filled expanse, much like the surrounding mountain valleys, into a vibrant neighborhood. Seongbuk-dong became a magnet for acclaimed writers and artists during the colonial period (1910-1945), drawn to its unique atmosphere, beautiful scenery, and clean air. One such figure was novelist Yi Tae-jun, who arrived in 1933. He dismantled his family home in Cheorwon, 80 km north of Seoul, and meticulously rebuilt it in Seongbuk-dong. This house, named Suyeon Sanbang, meaning “Mountain Studio of Long-lasting Inkstone,” is a testament to Yi’s vision. It stands as a modern hanok, seamlessly blending traditional elements like a tiled roof and eaves with modern conveniences like glass doors and an indoor bathroom. Yi’s daily ritual included brushing his teeth in the garden, gazing at the city wall and the mountain ridges. Today, Suyeon Sanbang operates as a traditional tea house, run by Yi’s relatives, offering visitors a glimpse into the past. Another notable resident was the poet monk Han Yong-un, who lived in Simujang, or “Ox Searching House,” from 1933 until his death in 1944. The house, built with a northern orientation to avoid facing the Japanese Government-General Building, stands as a symbol of resistance. Seongbuk-dong’s significance extends beyond its literary residents. The Seoul City Wall, stretching 18.6 km and built by King Taejo, founder of the Joseon Dynasty, winds its way through Seongbuk-dong. The section between Sukjeongmun (Gate of Solemn Rule) and Changuimun (Gate of Spreading Righteousness) is especially prized by photographers. The area was also home to Seonjamdan Shrine, where annual rites honored Leizu, the goddess of silkworms. The shrine’s entrance is marked by a red, wooden ceremonial gate and a stone altar, surrounded by gnarled mulberry trees. While Seongbuk-dong has undeniably modernized, echoes of its past linger. From the Seoul City Wall to the former homes of artists and writers, Seongbuk-dong offers a rich tapestry of history, culture, and captivating stories, making it a true hidden gem within the bustling metropolis of Seoul.