What whispers of ancient Rome echo within those walls? That, my friends, is Santa Maria Primerana. A church that stands as a testament to the ebb and flow of time.
The Santa Maria Primerana isn’t just a church. It’s a tapestry woven with threads from different eras. First mentioned in 966 AD, it sits upon the very foundation of a Roman temple. Look closely, and you’ll spot a “pietra serena” pillar, a relic of that ancient temple, embedded in the church’s north wall.
This holy place has seen it all. From its humble beginnings in 966 AD, it grew during the Middle Ages, gaining its beautiful Gothic chancel. Then, at the cusp of the 17th century, it donned a new face – a Mannerist facade, a touch of elegance for a place steeped in history. Inside, the spirit of the Renaissance comes alive with exquisite “sgraffito” decorations by Ludovico Buti.
But this is Fiesole, a place where even a single church holds countless tales. Santa Maria Primerana houses a 13th-century treasure – a tablet by Maestro di Rovezzano, depicting the Madonna and Child. It’s believed to be the oldest representation of Madonna’s veneration in Fiesole, giving the church its name “Primerana.” Step into the transept, and you’ll find yourself face-to-face with Francesco da Sangallo. Not literally, of course, but through his captivating marble bas-reliefs – one, a self-portrait from 1542, and the other, a portrait of Francesco del Fede dating back to 1575.
Santa Maria Primerana isn’t just a feast for the eyes, it’s a journey through the ages, a silent witness to the unfolding of history in this remarkable town.