“Are we eating today?” a frustrated Palermitan might ask. The question seems odd here at Santa Lucia Vergine Maria but it connects deeply to this day. Every year on December 13th Palermo celebrates Santa Lucia. She is the beloved Sicilian saint of light.
Santa Lucia is venerated as the protector of sight. She is also a symbol of hope. Legend says that during a severe famine in Sicily, the saint answered prayers for relief. Grain ships arrived. Sicilians abstain from eating bread and pasta on this day to honor her. Instead they eat rice and other alternatives. This birthed one of the island’s most cherished culinary delights: arancine.
The golden crispy rice balls are filled with mouthwatering ingredients. These include meat ragù, mozzarella, and peas. Saffron and butter are also popular. Arancine are the heart of Santa Lucia’s festivities. Locals eagerly line up at bakeries and street food stalls to savor these treats. Sweet variations exist too. Try arancine stuffed with chocolate or pistachio cream.
Palermo remembers the famine that struck the city in 1646. People begged Santa Lucia for help. She saved the population from starvation. A ship loaded with grain arrived in the harbor. A dove rested on the Episcopal throne to announce the precious cargo’s arrival.
Starving people did not work the wheat to make flour. They boiled it adding only olive oil to feed more quickly. They created the “cuccìa”. Over time this dish has evolved into what we enjoy today. Since then the citizens of Palermo have remembered the incident. They starve themselves for the whole day. They avoid eating products containing wheat especially bread and pasta. Instead they eat rice as arancina, legumes as panelle, and vegetables as potato gateaux.
Saint Lucy is famous and loved in Palermo because of a miracle on December 13 1646. There was a severe famine. People suffered heavily from hunger. Suddenly a vessel arrived at Palermo port carrying cereals. People were starving. They had no time to turn the cereals into flour. They started cooking the full seeds. This is how the famous “cuccìa” was invented. It is a soup made of boiled wheat.
The Spanish Holy Inquisition influenced Sicilian traditions. During this time everyone had to be Catholic. This led to many religious celebrations and patron saints. Lucy’s name comes from the Latin “Lux” meaning Light. That is why she protects sight and the eyes.
The arancina is a rice ball filled with different ingredients. The Arabs conquered Sicily in 800 AD. They started naming food as fruits. Arancia means orange hence arancina. The original version lacked tomato sauce. Tomato sauce was introduced in Europe after the discovery of America in 1492.
At first the arancina came from leftovers. Rice and stew from the previous dinner were combined in a new way. In the 1200s Frederick II’s court decided to deep fry it. The king needed a full meal to carry during his journeys or hunting. Farmers started bringing arancina to the countryside. It was a rich and nutritious meal. Today the arancina is the queen of Sicilian street food.
Visiting Palermo on this special day is highly recommended. The smell of fried food fills the streets and alleys. Immerse yourself in new and traditional tastes. The festive atmosphere and aromas of fried arancine are an experience everyone should embrace.
So as you stand here before Santa Lucia Vergine Maria remember her sacrifice. Remember the traditions. Most of all remember to enjoy the taste of arancine on Santa Lucia day. It is a uniquely Sicilian experience.