Sant Miquel de Balansat

“Why is this church shaped like that?” a curious voice always seems to ask. You see, Sant Miquel de Balansat isn’t like the other churches on Ibiza. Perched atop Puig de Missa, the ‘Hill of Mass’, Sant Miquel de Balansat stands as a stern guardian, its silhouette a familiar sight against the Ibizan sky. Built sometime in the 13th or 14th century, this church-fortress has borne witness to centuries of Ibizan history. And yes, its unusual shape is a story in itself. Unlike the traditional single-nave churches, Sant Miquel de Balansat boasts a unique cross-shaped design. It’s almost as if two separate buildings were merged, creating this intriguing architectural marvel. The main nave, running east to west, houses the chancel, a grand altar, and a series of chapels. The south wall, with its sturdy door, was traditionally the entrance for men. Now, look at the north-south nave. Notice the vaulted ceiling with its rounded arches? This section, with its own set of chapels, held a separate entrance for women back in the day. Imagine the scene on a Sunday morning centuries ago, the men entering from one side, women from the other, their paths converging within the church’s cool, echoing interior. Every Thursday evening throughout the summer, the spacious patio comes alive with the rhythmic steps and vibrant costumes of ‘ball pagès’, the traditional folk dance of Ibiza. As you stand here, picture the scene: the setting sun painting the sky in a riot of colors, the rhythmic beat of the drums, the swirling skirts of the dancers, and the centuries-old stones of Sant Miquel de Balansat bearing silent witness. It’s a memory you’ll carry with you long after you leave Ibiza’s shores.