San Miguel Arcángel

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Marvelous San Miguel Archangel isn’t it? This breathtaking Baroque basilica stands proudly in the heart of Madrid’s Austrias district. Its story is one of resilience faith and surprising twists.

Originally this site held the ancient parish church of Saints Justus and Pastor. Imagine a humble Mudéjar-style church dating back to 1202. That’s a church older than many parts of Madrid itself. It underwent many changes over centuries finally crumbling into ruins by the 18th century.

Then came Queen Isabella Farnese. She desired a grand church a fitting testament to her family’s power. She commissioned the construction of the San Miguel Archangel we see today. It’s a unique structure in Spain its convex facade unlike any other in Madrid. Italian architects Santiago Bonavia and Virgilio Rabaglio masterfully designed it. Construction commenced in 1739 concluding in 1745.

The interior is a masterpiece. Bartolomeo Rusca’s stunning frescoes adorn the cupola. They depict the celestial apotheosis of Saints Justus and Pastor. The acoustics are exceptional. The church became a true ‘music box’. The space was designed for concerts and musical performances.

A significant change occurred in the late 19th century. The church’s dedication shifted to San Miguel Arcángel. This coincided with the establishment of diplomatic relations between Spain and the Vatican. San Miguel became the patron saint not only of heavenly militias but also of Vatican diplomacy. The church was formally gifted to the Holy See. It’s now under the pastoral care of the Opus Dei.

Luigi Boccherini a celebrated Italian composer once lay buried here. But Benito Mussolini had his remains moved back to Italy in 1927 a fascinating detail to consider. San Miguel Archangel is not merely a church. It’s a living testament to Madrid’s history. A beautiful place of worship that survived wars changes in leadership and the passage of time. It is a must see for visitors to Madrid.

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