The plain exterior of San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore hides a jewel. This church, sometimes called “Milan’s Sistine Chapel”, is awash with color and stunning frescoes. The church was once part of a Benedictine convent, a home to noble ladies during Milan’s Renaissance. Step inside, and you’ll be greeted by a riot of decoration that covers every inch of the walls and ceilings.
The beauty you see wasn’t created all at once. The church was decorated over centuries, starting in the 16th century. Each fresco tells a story. Some depict scenes from the life of San Maurizio, the church’s namesake. Others, like the fresco of Saint Catherine’s beheading, might hint at scandalous local history. The model for Saint Catherine is believed to be the Countess of Challant, a woman known as the “black widow” who met a similar fate.
Look closely, and you’ll notice a dividing wall that splits the church. This wall speaks to the strict rules of the convent. Nuns, forbidden from mingling with the public, were confined behind this wall during services. They could hear the mass and even see it through a grille. But later, even the grille was deemed too revealing and covered over.
However, don’t think for a moment that the nuns were deprived of beauty. Their section of the church, the Hall of the Nuns, is equally ornate. Frescoes by Bernardino Luini, a student of Leonardo da Vinci, adorn the walls, depicting scenes from the life of Christ. This hall is a testament to the rich artistic traditions that thrived within these walls. San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore is a place where art and faith intertwine. It offers a glimpse into the lives of the cloistered nuns and the grandeur of Renaissance Milan.