Nestled in the northwestern outskirts of Milan, the Church of San Giovanni Battista in Trenno stands as a testament to centuries of history and artistic evolution. Today, we will explore the stories etched into its walls.
San Giovanni Battista’s origins trace back to a document of 1017. Back then, it served as the master church of the pieve of Trenno. However, that original church no longer stands. This one before us arose in the mid-17th century, completed in 1657. Cardinal Carlo Borromeo initiated its construction. The architect Trezzi designed it. Provost F. Parravicino and the confraternity of the Most Holy Rosary contributed generously.
Notice the exterior of San Giovanni Battista. It is plastered in white. Decorations are scarce. The facade presents itself in two orders. Pilasters divide it vertically. The narthex is oversized compared to the rest of the church. This narthex came to be in the 1930s. An eighteenth-century portico was walled in. Inside the narthex, you can still discern the lower part of the original facade.
Look at the upper part of the facade of San Giovanni Battista. A large window dominates the center. Niches flank it, housing frescoes. To the left stands San Carlo. To the right, Sant’Ambrogio. Above, a tympanum displays Saint John the Baptist. The style evokes the Church of San Fedele. It is sober and severe.
Around the back of San Giovanni Battista, observe the deep semicircular apse. Contrast this with the bell tower. The bell tower is Gothic. It is likely a remnant of the previous church. It features exposed bricks. A small hexagonal pyramid crowns it.
Inside San Giovanni Battista, a single nave extends before you. Two chapels grace each side. Two more chapels flank the narthex. The left one serves as a baptistery. The right one holds a painting by Giovanni Paolo Cavagna. It depicts San Girolamo. Pilasters echo the exterior. A trabeation runs along the walls. The church feels rather dark. The windows are placed high.
Let’s explore the chapels in the nave of San Giovanni Battista. The Chapel of the Most Holy Rosary is Baroque. It belonged to the confraternity for two centuries. The altarpiece is richly decorated. A niche houses an eighteenth-century statue. It depicts the Virgin with Child. The Chapel of the Holy Magi is also Baroque. Count Camillo Melzi erected it in 1668. Johann Christofer Storer painted the altarpiece. The Chapel of the Sacred Heart once served as the baptistery. Decorations on the walls date back to the first half of the twentieth century.
The presbytery includes a square area and a circular apse. Choir stalls line the lower walls. The baroque altar is made of polychrome marble. It was crafted between 1735 and 1736. Frescoes depict scenes from the life of St. John the Baptist. A carved wood beam sits at the base of the presbytery’s arch. It is decorated with plant elements and cherub heads.
Take a look at the counter-facade of San Giovanni Battista. Here is the organ and the eighteenth-century cantoria. The cantoria is embellished with a trompe l’oeil decoration. It simulates a coffered ceiling. The balustrade displays faded depictions of Gospel episodes.
The Church of San Giovanni Battista in Trenno shares similarities with the Church of Santa Maria Assunta al Vigentino. Both were once main churches of small villages. They may not be as magnificent as Milan’s inner-city churches. But they reflect modern styles. They possess elements of preciousness.
As we conclude our visit to San Giovanni Battista, consider its journey through time. From its early medieval roots to its Baroque transformation. The church stands as a repository of art, history, and faith.