Did you know that San Bartolomé Milpas Altas is Guatemala’s smallest municipality? It spans a mere seven square kilometers. Yet its history and culture are larger than life. San Bartolomé Milpas Altas has deep roots in the pre-colonial era. It existed long before the Spanish Conquest in the 16th century. The exact founding date of San Bartolomé Milpas Altas remains a mystery.
The name “Milpas Altas” comes from its past. It was part of the Chapel of the Holy Cross. This chapel encompassed all towns with the same name. “San Bartolomé” honors its patron saint Bartholomew the Apostle. The municipality was once deemed a fourth-class municipality. San Bartolomé Milpas Altas is nestled in the mountains.
During colonial times the area was given to Dominican friars. They established a doctrine here. Doña Juana de Poblete gave the land to the Dominicans in 1569. She was the wife of Gaspar Arias Dávila. He was a conquistador and mayor. The friars aimed to convert the natives to Catholicism. They taught them the gospels and Spanish. These doctrines turned into Indian towns. These endured throughout the colonial period. San Bartolomé became part of the Santiago de los Caballeros de Guatemala convent’s jurisdiction in 1638.
After Central America’s independence in 1821 Guatemala set up circuits for justice. San Bartolomé was part of the Antigua circuit. In 1833 San Mateo Milpas Altas was added to San Bartolomé. Later in 1935 San Mateo became part of Santa Lucía Milpas Altas.
In 1880 San Bartolomé had 304 residents. Agriculture thrived. Women wove children’s coats and huipiles. The land was fertile because of its broken terrain. Rivers crisscrossed the area.
In 1955 San Bartolomé had 900 residents. All lived in the municipal seat. Indigenous people made up 69.8 percent of the population. The illiteracy rate was 26.8 percent. Water came from the Nimachay source. It flowed through a clay canal. There was no medical care. Common illnesses were whooping cough and measles. There was no electricity. The two urban schools were inadequate. There was no market. Also there were no industries.
Today San Bartolomé Milpas Altas is known for its rich culinary culture. Don’t miss the paches. These are like tamales. They are made with potatoes and filled with chicken or pork. Try the sweet tamalitos de elote. Also sample the hearty pepián stew. Be sure to taste the chirmol. It is a tomato-based sauce. And don’t forget the rellenitos for dessert. These are plantains filled with black beans.
San Bartolomé Milpas Altas celebrates its patron saint on August 24. This is during the Fiesta Titular. The predominant indigenous language is Kaqchikel. San Bartolomé is surrounded by other municipalities. These include Santiago Sacatepéquez and San Lucas Sacatepéquez. It is a charming destination. It offers a glimpse into authentic Guatemalan life. San Bartolomé Milpas Altas is small but significant. It is rich in history culture and flavor.