Slipping through time, let’s journey back to the Byzantine era, to a place where the echoes of Roman grandeur meet the nascent whispers of Christianity. Right here, before us stands Saint George Church in Byblos, a testament to centuries of faith and architectural ingenuity. Saint George Church wasn’t always a church. It was built using the sturdy blocks of a former Roman temple. The deity worshipped within those ancient walls and the exact location of the temple remain shrouded in mystery. The church we see today is a blend of eras. The original Byzantine structure is rectangular, measuring 18 by 9 meters. Three side doors, facing north, west, and south, invite you into a single nave. This nave is centered by an apse and flanked by two others, creating a sense of peaceful enclosure. Centuries later, the Crusaders left their mark on Saint George Church. They enlarged the church during the Middle Ages, strengthening the facades. They inserted fragments of columns into the north and south walls. They also added arrowslit openings, narrow windows designed for archers to defend the church. Look closely above the northern door. You’ll see a Crusader cross engraved on a stone block, a lasting symbol of their presence. A piece of Saint George Church now resides in France. Ernest Renan, a 19th-century archaeologist, removed the church’s lintel and sent it to the Louvre Museum. This lintel, adorned with a winged solar disc, dates back to either the Persian or Hellenistic period. It also bears a Greek proto-Byzantine inscription. A replica of the lintel has been installed on the southern side of the church. On that same southern side, you’ll find remnants of the original Roman temple—fragments of columns whispering stories of a bygone era. One column, etched with bicorn crosses, symbolizes the Anchorites, hermits dedicated to a life of solitude and prayer. Saint George Church embodies the fascinating transformation from pagan worship to Christian faith. It showcases the architectural ingenuity of blending existing Roman structures with Byzantine design. The result is a layered history, a tangible narrative of Byblos’s rich and complex past.
Les Colombes
“Imagine a place where the echoes of laughter mingle with the gentle lapping of waves,” I began, my voice barely