Did Reverend Bryce truly intend to outdo St. John’s Church? Saint Andrew’s Protestant Church whispers tales of such ambition. Here in the heart of Kolkata, in the bustling BBD Bagh area, stands Saint Andrew’s Protestant Church. It’s a striking structure with a grand white facade and towering Doric pillars. Saint Andrew’s Protestant Church isn’t just a place of worship. It is a monument to the historical interaction between the Scots and the city of Kolkata. Reverend James Bryce, a Scottish minister, envisioned this church in the early 19th century. Kolkata was then Calcutta, the capital under British rule. BBD Bagh, formerly Dalhousie Square, was the city’s vibrant center. Scots played significant roles in colonial India, from soldiers to missionaries. Bryce wanted a church for this community, a church whose spire would rise higher than that of the nearby St. John’s Church, an Anglican church. This ambition sparked a rivalry with Bishop Middleton, the head of St. John’s. Undeterred, Bryce secured the necessary permissions and, with a touch of defiance, topped Saint Andrew’s Protestant Church’s spire with a black rooster finial. It was a symbol meant to “crow over” St. John’s. The rooster remains to this day, a testament to this historical feud. Constructed between 1815 and 1818 by Messrs Burns, Currie, and Co., Saint Andrew’s Protestant Church is inspired by St. Martin-in-the-Fields in London. Its simple yet elegant interior features white walls, Ionic pillars, and a blue-green ceiling. A large black clock with orange dials was added to the spire in 1835. The church’s foundation stone was laid by Lady Warren Hastings, wife of the Governor-General, on St. Andrew’s Day in 1815. Saint Andrew’s Protestant Church served not only Scots but also local Bengali converts and other Christians. Over time, it became part of the Church of North India. But its Scottish heritage is preserved, notably in the church’s archives, which hold records for other Scottish churches across Asia. Saint Andrew’s Protestant Church stands amidst other historical landmarks. Writer’s Building, Tipu Sultan Mosque, and Sacred Heart Church are all nearby. The church’s story reflects the complex history of Kolkata, a blend of colonial ambition, religious fervor, and cultural exchange. It’s a story that continues to resonate within these walls.
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