Once, this very ground held a magnificent temple. The Saiji Temple Ruins Stele stands as a silent witness to a bygone era. Saiji or the West Temple once stood proudly here in Kyoto. It was one of two grand Buddhist temples.
Let’s travel back to the early Heian period. It was a time of change and new beginnings. Emperor Kanmu moved the capital to Heian-kyo in 794. Two years later in 796, Saiji Temple was founded.
The temple was built alongside To-ji also known as the East Temple. They were symmetrical. Each temple occupied a square site. The sites were about 300 meters by 300 meters. They flanked Suzaku Avenue, now Senbon-dori. They stood just north of the great Rashomon gate.
Imagine the grandeur of Saiji Temple. It mirrored To-ji Temple in size and importance. The temples likely housed a Sogosho. This was an office of Buddhist authority.
Saiji Temple and To-ji Temple held a unique position. They were the only Buddhist institutions allowed in the capital at the time. Emperor Kanmu introduced this policy. He wanted to curb the political power of Buddhist institutions. These institutions had grown strong in Heijo-kyo now Nara.
Sadly Saiji Temple met a tragic end. Fire ravaged the temple in 990. It burned again in 1233. After the second fire, it was abandoned and never rebuilt. To-ji Temple, however, survived. It stands to this day albeit rebuilt.
Today a small park commemorates Saiji Temple. It sits in Minami-ku Kyoto. It is a little west and north of Kujo and Senbon streets. In 1921, the site was designated a national historic site. It’s called Saiji Ato or Saiji Temple Ruins.
Excavations began in 1959. They revealed the foundations of the main hall and corridors. The priests’ quarters dining hall and Nandai-mon gate were also found. Areas not originally included were added in 1966. A dirt mound marks the remains of the lecture hall.
Saiji Temple provides insight into Heian-kyo City’s scale. Along with To-ji Temple, it is considered historically important. The foundation stone from the main hall is all that remains.
Near Karahashi Saiji Park stands a small temple. It inherited the name Saiji Temple. It serves as a reminder of the grand temple that once stood here. This stele marks the spot where history unfolded. Take a moment to reflect on the rise and fall of Saiji Temple.