Phum Veal Thlan

Clutching my binoculars, I eagerly scanned the trees of Phum Veal Thlan. “Ten thousand birds,” I murmured, barely believing the commune official’s estimate. Phum Veal Thlan, nestled on the outskirts of Phnom Penh in Dangkor district’s Kong Noy commune, is an unexpected haven for birdlife. This 4-hectare plot of privately owned land, vacant for years, has become a vital sanctuary. Phum Veal Thlan pulsates with the life of egrets, herons, black-crowned night herons, and painted storks. The bird population has exploded in recent years, from a mere two or three thousand to a staggering ten thousand. This surge, according to Chen Sophal, project manager of the Cambodia Bird Guide Association, might be attributed to habitat changes, possibly driven by climate change or habitat loss elsewhere. The villagers of Phum Veal Thlan have taken up the mantle of protectors. Around ten families unite to defend these feathered inhabitants from poachers and habitat destruction. Som Sarun, a resident, proudly stated, “There have never been any poachers here because the community is united to protect the birds.” When startled, the birds take flight, and the villagers rally to deter any perceived threats. The landscape of Phum Veal Thlan itself is an interesting mix. Hilly, dotted with a couple of graveyards, and surrounded by former paddy fields now transformed into ponds by sand-pumping operations. Bamboo and other trees have sprung up, creating the perfect refuge for the birds, offering both water and shelter. The air, however, carries a distinct aroma. Meth Bunthoeun, the commune official overseeing the birds, warned, “Upon entering the forest, you’ll notice an unpleasant smell due to the sheer number of birds.” This pungent fishy odor comes from the fish the birds bring back to feed their young. The birds of Phum Veal Thlan have a rhythm to their lives. Black-crowned night herons hunt in the evening. Painted storks, on the other hand, search for food in the morning and return to their communal roosts in the evening, nesting in large groups, fifty to a hundred birds per tree. Phum Veal Thlan’s future is uncertain. The land is privately owned, with one owner residing in France and the other in Cambodia. While the local authorities and community are dedicated to its protection, the Ministry of Environment will ultimately decide whether to designate it a preservation zone. Phum Veal Thlan is more than just a bird sanctuary. It’s a testament to the power of community conservation and a hidden gem waiting to be discovered. As Suon Ry, a teacher at the Secondary School of Fine Arts, put it after his visit, “This area has the potential to become a tourist destination.” So, come to Phum Veal Thlan, experience the cacophony of birdsong, and witness the magic of this hidden paradise.