Beneath our feet lies history, a silent testament to Cambodia’s rich past, it is Preah Thkol. This temple, also known as Prasat Preah Thkol, or Mebon, stands as a man-made island wonder. It sits at the heart of the Preah Khan of Kampong Svay’s baray. The baray, or reservoir, is impressive. It measures 2.7 kilometers long and 700 meters wide. Parts of it have dried up, becoming farmland. The northern side still holds water and is now called Preah Dac Baray.
Imagine this island. It is about 250 by 170 meters. At its center stands Prah Thkol, a temple enclosed by a laterite wall. This wall measures roughly 45 by 52 meters. Four gopuras, or entrances, punctuate the wall. Inside, a grand central shrine rises, flanked by two smaller shrines. These smaller shrines are thought to have been libraries.
Around the enclosure, four small ponds sit at each cardinal point. The highlight of Preah Thkol is its architectural composition. Each corner between the central shrine’s vestibules features a unique design. It starts with human figures leaning on clubs. Above them are three elephants. Each elephant has a bouquet of lotuses in its trunk. Two devata figures stand on either side. Above them, enormous Garudas, mythical birds, clutch a Kala. The Kala is a monster-like face representing time. Nagas, mythical serpents, flank the Garuda. Above the Garuda is a row of Hamsa, sacred geese.
If you look closely above the temple doors, you will see decayed relief carvings. These carvings depict flying Apsaras and worshipers flanking a central idol. The idol sits on a pedestal hooded by a Naga. Many lintels remain above the doors. Some have five niches with inset worshipers and idols. Others have been lost to time.
Notice the decorated door jambs. They are typical of temples of this era. Some medallions feature the lotus emblem. Others show personages and wildlife. The door jambs of the central shrine seem unique. Preah Thkol has an elongated layout. The laterite enclosure wall features four gopuras. The east and west gopuras are larger. The north and south gopuras are smaller.
Inside the enclosure, the main cruciform-shaped tower dominates. On its eastern side are two library buildings. These buildings open to the west.
In the late 19th century, explorers described Preah Thkol as a ruin haunted by monkeys. The entrance was marked by two sras separated by a causeway. Caryatids of krouths, or lion cubs, supported the ramps. The enclosure was crowned with ogives framing characters. Two giants and two lions guarded the main entrance. Sculptures adorned the tower from base to summit. A line of kneeling worshipers ran along the base. Above, three-headed elephants emerged from the wall. Their trunks held foliage, supporting the base. Four large krouths with eagle beaks and women’s bodies stood on the upper floor. They clasped monster Rheou heads. Reptiles crawled on their sides. Higher up, birds and faces of divinities were framed in the ogives. Angels occupied niches surrounded by foliage.
Excavations unearthed a stone figure with broken arms and feet. Its head, however, remained intact. The figure was thought to be an incarnation of Vishnu or Buddha. Later, it was identified as a Buddhist saint. A statue, lions, guardian divinities, and ornamental heads from Preah Thkol are now part of the Khmer Museum collection.
Preah Thkol is located in Ta Saeng Village. The monument faces the same direction as the larger Preah Khan monument. A limonite wall forms the enclosure. This enclosure has four doors. The east and west entrances are buildings with three rooms. The central room forms a passage. The north and south doors are simpler. The roadway from the east gate leads to the central structure. This sandstone structure is well-preserved. It has a cross-shaped room and four vestibules with false windows. Two other structures occupy the courtyard. The south structure is elongated. The north structure opens to the west.
Preah Thkol is a testament to the art of Bayon. Experts estimate that it dates to the late 12th or early 13th century. The temple’s unique decoration includes three-headed elephants and corner Garudas. Lintels feature five Buddhas in niches. Preah Thkol stands as a reminder of Cambodia’s glorious past. It is a site where history, art, and mythology intertwine. Take a moment to appreciate the intricate carvings. Imagine the bustling life that once surrounded this sacred place.