High on the rim of an extinct volcano, the magnificent Phnom Rung temple commands attention. It stands as a testament to the ingenuity and artistry of the Khmer Empire. Phnom Rung, also known as Prasat Hin Phanom Rung, rests 402 meters above sea level. Reaching it is a pilgrimage in itself, a climb up a grand stone stairway. The panoramic views of the surrounding countryside are simply breathtaking. Phnom Rung was once a vital part of the vast Angkor Empire. Its intricate design, featuring towers, galleries, and peaceful lotus ponds, reflects the sophisticated architecture of the Angkor Wat style. This style flourished between 1080 and 1180. You can see similarities in other temples like Chau Say Tevoda and Banteay Samre in Cambodia. The construction of Phnom Rung is attributed to Prince Narendraditya, nephew of the Angkor Wat builder, Suryavarman II. An inscription on the temple’s stele tells this tale. Legend says Narendraditya left the military life of Angkor to become a hermit on this very mountain. Phnom Rung is more than just a temple. It’s a symbolic representation of Mount Kailash, the mythical home of the Hindu god Shiva. The temple’s eastward orientation, a common feature in Shiva temples, aligns with the rising sun. The long, 160-meter processional walkway leading to the temple emphasizes its sacred nature. The walkway’s lotus bud carvings add a touch of elegance to the journey. Three Naga bridges, adorned with carved serpent balustrades, mark the path: one at the bottom, another midway, and the final one at the summit. They symbolize the connection between the earthly and the divine. The central prasat, the main sanctuary, houses a replica of the Shiva linga, a symbol of masculine energy. The original linga would have stood on a yoni, a representation of feminine energy, creating a balance similar to the yin and yang. On the summer solstice, the rising sun’s rays illuminate the linga through the temple’s fifteen portals, a spectacle that continues to draw crowds today. Phnom Rung’s artwork is another highlight. A prominent lintel at the entrance depicts Vishnu reclining on the serpent Ananta, with the four-faced Brahma sitting on a lotus flower sprouting from Vishnu’s navel. This lintel has its own story. It was stolen in the 1960s and later found in the Art Institute of Chicago. After much diplomatic effort, it was returned to Thailand in 1988. Another remarkable piece depicts Shiva in his multi-armed form, standing on a base representing Mount Kailash. Phnom Rung’s history doesn’t end with the Angkor period. During Jayavarman VII’s reign, Phnom Rung became a significant stop on the road connecting Phimai with Angkor Thom. Even today, the influence of the Khmer Empire remains palpable. Many locals in the area still speak a dialect of the Khmer language, a living link to a glorious past.
Chau Say Tevoda
Have you ever wondered what it would be like to walk through time? To step into a world that existed