Oratorio di Santa Maria delle Selve

Whispers of rebellion echo within these walls. This is the Oratorio di Santa Maria delle Selve a humble building with a rich and surprising history. For centuries it stood as a small place of worship a quiet refuge for Milan’s peasantry. Imagine the lives of those who sought solace within its simple stone walls. The Oratorio di Santa Maria delle Selve was built long ago outside the city’s walls. It served as a small chapel far from the bustling city life. A priest from the Basilica di San Vittore al Corpo held Mass here. This Basilica is where Saint Protasius was buried. The Oratorio is named after him. The Oratorio’s placement isn’t quite aligned with the road. Perhaps it was built according to an older tradition. Maybe it followed an ancient path or perhaps it was even aligned with the summer solstice. It’s fascinating to consider its connection to possibly older pagan practices. During a fierce siege against Emperor Frederick I Barbarossa the Milanese soldiers fiercely resisted here. Legend says after victory the Emperor himself prayed in the Oratorio di Santa Maria delle Selve thanking God for his triumph. Another legend speaks of a hermit who during the Black Death sought refuge here. They say his faith protected the nearby village. Over the centuries the Oratorio di Santa Maria delle Selve served many purposes. It was even used as a chapel by Angeliche monks. In the 17th century the Olivetans took over. During Napoleon’s era it became an unlikely weapons depot for his soldiers. It also became a secret meeting place for revolutionaries. Count Federico Confalonieri used it as a hideout. He planned uprisings against the Austrians there. A century later miraculously the Oratorio resumed its role as a place of worship. Sadly it was abandoned again after a neighboring church was completed. In the 1950s people nicknamed it Gesetta di Lusert the Little Church of the Lizards. Many lizards lived there. Its unique character inspired many artists even Milanese songwriter Piero Mazzaretta. The Oratorio di Santa Maria delle Selve faced demolition during Milan’s rapid urban growth. Local residents fought to save this precious piece of Milan’s heritage. The Oratorio survived. It now sits in the median strip of a busy road. After restoration in the 1980s the Oratorio stands today a testament to its resilience. It opens twice a year for the Festa del Lorenteggio a celebration of this remarkable place. Take a moment to appreciate the Oratorio di Santa Maria delle Selve. Its simple beauty and powerful history will remain with you.