Perhaps unnoticed amidst Milan’s urban sprawl, the Oratorio di San Paolo Apostolo stands as a testament to faith and architectural evolution. Today we will explore the story of this unique church. It blends neo-Romanesque design with subtle Art Deco elements.
At the turn of the 20th century Milan expanded rapidly. New neighborhoods were needed. Old villages became part of the city. New districts filled the surrounding countryside. Montalbino was one such small area. It needed a new parish church to serve its growing population.
In 1926 architect Piero Palumbo designed the Oratorio di San Paolo Apostolo. Palumbo had lived in Vienna. He was a trusted architect of the House of Habsburg before World War I. Construction began in Piazza Caserta.
The first completed part of the church opened on April 1 1928. The transept and tiburio were added by 1932. Archbishop Ildefonso Schuster of Milan officially inaugurated the church in 1934.
During the 1930s side altars were added to the presbytery. Between 1949 and 1951 the church was further decorated. Vanni Rossi created frescoes for the apse. These depicted the Vocation, Martyrdom, and Glory of Saint Paul. A mosaic floor was laid in the presbytery. Palumbo designed some of the stained-glass windows.
The 1960s saw more improvements. An organ was installed. Confessionals and pews were added. Bronze doors were installed in the 1980s. In 1991 a major interior renovation took place. The baptismal font moved to the left transept. A new main altar and ambo were erected. Archbishop Carlo Maria Martini dedicated these in June 1991.
Externally the Oratorio di San Paolo Apostolo resembles a Romanesque basilica. Some details make it seem older than it is. Originally the pronaos was smaller. It only covered the central door. Later the covering was extended to include the side doors. The facade has a gabled shape. It includes many Lombard Romanesque features. A series of arches mark the front. A three-light window sits in the center. Single-light windows are on the sides. Stone columns support the arches of the windows and pronaos. The decoration is almost Art Deco in style. Octagonal structures with lanterns flank the sides adding originality. They resemble ancient shrines.
A raised wall separates the central body of the facade from the nave. A small ornamental bell tower stands on this wall. The sides have typical Padan Romanesque features. Slender single-light windows light the side aisles. Double-light windows joined by arches light the main nave. A cornice of hanging arches decorates the building.
Palumbo took liberties with the tiburio design. It is not octagonal like traditional Romanesque structures. Instead it has a square base. The octagonal upper part has four small apses on its corners. It is topped by an octagonal lantern. An extremely tall bell tower was planned but never built.
Inside the Oratorio di San Paolo Apostolo is bright. Three naves feature wide arches. These support the ribbed vault. The presbytery is interesting. The main apse features frescoes by Vanni Rossi. They depict the Vocation the Martyrdom and the Glory of Saint Paul. They were completed in 1951.
The side altars are beautiful. The altar of the Madonna is on the left of the main altar. It was created by marble workers from Verona. Behind it are copies of Palumbo’s stained-glass windows. The altar of San Giuseppe is on the right.
The pulpit is a beautiful example of Art Deco style. It is made of shaped wood. A stone corbel shaped like a large flower supports it. Luckily it was preserved. Other churches from the same period have removed similar pulpits during renovations.
The Oratorio di San Paolo Apostolo stands as a testament to architectural ingenuity. It is a place where different styles and eras converge. Its rich history and artistic details make it a unique landmark in Milan. It invites reflection and appreciation.