The Oratorio di San Bernardino is a captivating church in Milan that tells a story of life and death. It stands nestled between a bustling street and a large wall, with an understated facade that hardly hints at the morbid beauty that lies within. It’s a small church, but it’s a true testament to the city’s history and the human fascination with mortality.
Built in 1269, the Oratorio di San Bernardino was commissioned as a place of worship for the people of Milan, and as a place to venerate the deceased. It was attached to an existing ossuary, a chamber built in 1210 to hold bones from an overflowing cemetery. The church was destroyed by fire in 1712 and was subsequently rebuilt by the renowned architect Carlo Giuseppe Merlo. The church was rededicated to Saint Bernardino of Siena and the ossuary was incorporated into the chapel, giving it the name Oratorio di San Bernardino alle Ossa.
The ossuary is a powerful place, with walls adorned with skulls and bones in elaborate designs. These aren’t just any bones – they belonged to the patients of the nearby Brolo Hospital, a charitable institution for the sick and the poor. During the plague, the hospital’s overflow of bodies created a terrible need for a new burial place. The ossuary became a final sanctuary for the dead, a place for them to be remembered, even if they were forgotten by the living. Their very bones, arranged in a macabre yet artistic fashion, form a solemn masterpiece, reminding visitors of both the ephemeral nature of human life and the enduring power of spirituality.
The Oratorio di San Bernardino alle Ossa is a reflection of Milan’s history, culture, and faith. It’s a place where the past and the present come together, reminding us of the beauty and fragility of existence. It is a testament to the endurance of the human spirit, a place where life and death are intertwined, and where art and faith find a unique and enduring connection.