Consider this: a bustling hub transformed from vegetable farms. That’s the story of the Old building at Thanon Song Wat. We are standing on Thanon Song Wat. It is a historic road in Bangkok’s Samphanthawong district. King Chulalongkorn or Rama V built it in 1892. This followed a large fire in the Sampheng area.
The Siamese government wanted to expand roads. They also wanted to improve public utilities. King Chulalongkorn himself drew a line on the map with a pencil. This marked the path of Song Wat Road. Construction happened in two phases. The first phase concluded in 1892. The second finished in 1907.
Thanon Song Wat became a key access point for water transport. Minor roads and alleyways connected to the port. Steamships communicated between Chon Buri province, Ban Don and Bangkok. Barges traveled between seaside towns and the capital. Seafood, vegetables, plants and herbs passed through here. Row shophouses became wholesale companies. They dealt in vessel-transported goods. Many Thai Chinese millionaire families started their businesses here.
Along Thanon Song Wat, you can find various religious sites. These include Lao Pun Tao Kong Joss House. It adheres to Chinese beliefs. There is also Masjid Luang Kocha Itsahak. It is a mosque for Islamic worship. Also present is Wat Pathum Khongkha or Wat Sampheng. This is a Thai temple.
Today, the buildings along Thanon Song Wat remain much as they were over 100 years ago. Many still run traditional businesses. Some trade whole grain seeds. The early row buildings along the Chao Phraya River feature beautiful three-story designs. They boast stucco decorations. Opposite them are two-story buildings. These also have stucco in flower and fruit motifs. Corinthian pillars frame the windows. Some buildings have graffiti artwork from Western artists.
In 2023, Time Out named Thanon Song Wat the 39th coolest neighborhood in the world. King Rama V ordered the road’s construction. This happened after a fire devastated the Sampheng community in 1906. The road aimed to broaden the residential and commercial district. “Song Wat” means “drawn by the king”. It connects Ratchawong, Yaowarat, Chakkrawat, Anuwong and Burapha roads.
Historian Thanat Bhumarush notes that Thanon Song Wat was a Teochew community. Muslim merchants from Melayu also gathered here. Several well-known companies started here. These include Charoen Pokphand Group and Saha Pathanapibul.
The Old building at Thanon Song Wat stands as a reminder. It represents the blend of cultures, trade and history. It is a unique piece of Bangkok’s past. It continues to evolve while retaining its original charm.