What if I told you that this unassuming place, Niho, was once a thriving island? Niho, nestled within the bustling metropolis of Hiroshima, holds a past as rich and deep as the waters that once surrounded it. It might be hard to imagine now, as you look around at the city streets, but this was once Niho-jima, the “Biggest Village in Japan.” From the Yamato period, Niho-jima was a key player in Japan’s history, renowned for its cinnabar mines, which yielded the vibrant pigment known as “Niu.” This island, rich in resources and strategically important, attracted the attention of many, leading to naval battles and power struggles. Niho’s people, skilled seafarers, transitioned from fishermen to fierce warriors, protecting their coveted island. Even a renowned poet, Ono no Takamura, was captivated by Niho-jima’s allure, immortalizing its “deep fragrance” in a poem from the early Heian period. The island’s fate took a turn in 1662 when an ambitious project connected Niho-jima to the mainland. The land reclamation project, marked by the construction of an embankment, transformed Niho-jima into Niho, blending its fishing heritage with the opportunities of upland farming. However, the island’s story didn’t end there. Driven by a pioneering spirit and a shortage of fishing grounds, Niho’s residents embarked on daring journeys to far-flung corners of the globe. They sought new beginnings in Hokkaido, Hawaii, California, and even Brazil, leaving an indelible mark on these distant shores. Today, Niho stands as a testament to these journeys, its history interwoven with tales of seafaring adventures, industrial innovation, and the enduring spirit of its people. As you continue your exploration of Hiroshima, remember the hidden depths of Niho, a place where the echoes of a vibrant island past linger beneath the surface of the modern city.
芸州廿日市御本陣旧跡
“A castle built on the plain?” you might ask. “Isn’t that a bit…exposed?” And indeed, the Hiroshima Gokoku Jinja, the