Once a river flowing freely, Neglinnaya now lies hidden beneath our feet. This underground river whispers tales of Moscow’s evolution. Today, we’ll uncover the secrets of the Neglinnaya, a waterway that shaped the city’s destiny.
Imagine Moscow centuries ago. The Neglinnaya River meandered through the heart of the city. The Kremlin was strategically built east of the Neglinnaya. The river acted as a natural moat. However, this moat couldn’t stop invasions. It did slow development west of the Kremlin. The city expanded eastward.
Frequent flooding around the Neglinnaya hindered settlement. Muscovites built dams creating interconnected ponds. These ponds served various purposes including firefighting. They powered watermills, forges, workshops and public baths. Some of Moscow’s famous baths like Sandunov Baths were built on Neglinnaya Street.
Originally, there were four bridges spanning the Neglinnaya River. The Voskresensky Bridge once stood here. Fragments were unearthed during an excavation in 1994. The Kuznetsky Bridge was a three-span structure. The Trinity Bridge and Petrovsky Bridge also crossed the river. Remnants of the Petrovsky Bridge were found during renovations of the Maly Theatre.
In 1775, the first plans emerged to reconstruct the Neglinnaya River. By 1792, a masonry canal was built parallel to the Neglinnaya. The water was diverted and the old riverbed was filled. After the devastating Fire of Moscow in 1812, the canal became polluted. From 1817 to 1819, it was covered creating the first Neglinnaya Tunnel. This also formed present-day Neglinnaya Street. Before Moscow had a centralized sewage system the tunnel doubled as a sewer.
The first reconstruction occurred from 1910 to 1914. A larger pipe replaced part of the tunnel. World War I halted its completion. This new pipe designed by engineer Schekotov could have sufficed if finished. However, the old pipe’s narrow cross-section couldn’t handle the water volume. Catastrophic floods occurred in 1965 and 1973.
In 1966, a second arm was built for the Neglinnaya River. It ran under Zaryadye. After the 1973 flood, a new tunnel was constructed from 1974 to 1989. This tunnel runs from Durova Street to the Metropol Hotel, where it splits. The old tunnel was repurposed for pipes and cables.
The ponds in Manezhnaya Square are not the Neglinnaya River. They are an imitation. The real river flows too deep to be seen. Small statues based on Russian fables decorate the area.
Today, the Neglinnaya flows silently. It is a hidden testament to Moscow’s ever-changing urban landscape. As we stand here, remember the river. It once shaped the city’s course. It now flows beneath us.