Mullae Neighborhood Park

Did a park ever spark a coup? Mullae Neighborhood Park did. This seemingly tranquil park in Mullae-dong, Seoul, holds a secret. It’s not just a place for leisurely strolls and playground fun. Mullae Neighborhood Park was once the headquarters of the South Korean Army’s 6th District. This was the very spot where the May 16 Coup of 1961 was launched, propelling Park Chung Hee to power. Today, amidst the walkways, exercise equipment, and children’s laughter, a hidden piece of history remains. An underground bunker, now sealed behind a locked, unmarked door, silently testifies to the park’s turbulent past. The park’s connection to Park Chung Hee is further underscored by a bronze bust erected in his honor in 1985. This bust has become a focal point for both commemoration and controversy. In 2000, following revelations about Park’s wartime loyalties, the bust was vandalized, toppled, and dragged across the city. Its nose, broken in the fray, was later repaired, and the bust was reinstalled. Yet, the controversy didn’t end there. During the 2016 protests against Park’s daughter, President Park Geun-hye, the bust was again defaced with the word “remove” spray-painted in bold red letters. Today, enclosed within a protective iron fence, the bust stands as a stark reminder of Mullae Neighborhood Park’s complex and contested history. A nearby sign warns against further vandalism. It serves not only as a testament to the past but also as a reflection of the ongoing debate surrounding Park Chung Hee’s legacy. So next time you visit Mullae Neighborhood Park, take a moment to look beyond the swings and slides. Consider the echoes of history that resonate within this seemingly ordinary space. Mullae Neighborhood Park is a place where the past and present intertwine, offering a glimpse into the heart of South Korea’s tumultuous journey.