“Shh listen closely.” That’s what the British East India Company might have said when they fortified this islet. This is the Middle Ground Coastal Battery a heritage site managed by the Indian Navy. It stands on Middle Ground isle in Mumbai Harbour. Look around you. We are just a few hundred meters from the Gateway of India.
Back in 1682 the British East India Company fortified this island. Their goal was to stop sea piracy in the area. Imagine those days. The islet was a key point in curbing piracy. Later a marine police force of Bhandaris were stationed here. They watched for pirates boarding ships. The Bhandaris were known for honesty and local knowledge. They wore yellow turbans and blue trousers a distinctive uniform.
About two hundred years ago piracy moved to the South China Sea. The police force was disbanded. The rock then came under the control of the Royal Navy. From there it passed to the Royal Indian Navy and eventually to the Indian Navy.
The Royal Indian Navy added to the fortifications. They installed coastal guns. Later three anti-aircraft guns were added. This was to protect the harbor from a perceived Japanese invasion during World War II. The AA guns were eventually removed. But the deep cylindrical mountings of the old guns still remain.
Today the Middle Ground Coastal Battery is manned by a small team. Eight sailors of the Indian Navy maintain it. They stay connected to the mainland through radio communications. The island serves as the saluting base. It is for the Flag Officer Commander-in-Chief of the Western Naval Command. When a new FOC-in-C takes office the old cannons are fired. This is done ceremonially with a bugle call. The same happens when a naval ship returns home after a long deployment.
The Middle Ground Coastal Battery also holds artifacts from the colonial era. Things like ceramic bathtubs are stored here. A maritime museum once occupied part of the isle. But it closed in 2000. The exhibits moved to the maritime museum of the INS Vikrant. Ensigns of old naval ships are still stored on the isle.
This islet is hard to visit. Berthing is difficult during low tide. Many lucrative offers have been made for the island. But selling it would compromise the security of warships berthed at Naval Jetties.
So the Middle Ground Coastal Battery remains. It is a testament to Mumbai’s naval history. It is a silent guardian in the harbor. This small islet has played a big role in the city’s defense. From curbing piracy to guarding against invasion this battery has seen it all. Its history echoes with the tides. It is a story of vigilance and maritime power.