Is it possible for rock to whisper tales of gods, monks, and battles? The Mandapeshwar Caves in Mumbai might just convince you they can. Carved into the hillside of Mount Poinsur in Borivali, the Mandapeshwar Caves stand as a testament to centuries of shifting faiths and tumultuous history.
These caves, dating back to the 8th century, were originally Buddhist viharas. Buddhist monks sought refuge and meditation spaces. They left their mark on the very stone we stand before.
But the story of the Mandapeshwar Caves doesn’t end there. Around 1500 years ago, the caves transitioned into a Hindu shrine dedicated to Lord Shiva. Sculptures of Nataraja, Sadashiva and Ardhanarishvara appeared. Ganesha, Brahma and Vishnu statuettes joined them. These works depicted mythical tales of Hindu gods and goddesses. Even today, you can view a sculpture representing Shiva’s marriage to Parvati. Look through the large square window at the south end of the caves.
The Mandapeshwar Caves have witnessed countless invasions and transformations. They were even used as housing by armies and refugees. The monolithic paintings suffered defacement during this period.
The Portuguese arrived. They built a church dedicated to Our Lady of Immaculate Conception atop the caves in 1544. A visitor in 1804 noted that the Hindu figurines were covered in plaster to convert the caves into a chapel.
In 1739, the Marathas, led by Bajirao Peshwa I, defeated the Portuguese. The caves were reclaimed as a Hindu temple. But the British soon defeated the Marathas. The caves became a place of Christian worship again. A three-foot high cross was carved into a stone panel that once depicted Hindu figures.
With the end of colonial rule, the church fell into disrepair. The Mandapeshwar Caves gradually reverted back to the worship of Shiva. The caves are smaller than the nearby Kanheri caves. The main cave features a pillared forecourt with three side chambers. The central sanctum houses a Shiva linga. A small Nandi stands guard at the entrance.
Take a look around. Notice the scars on the walls? They bear witness to the Mandapeshwar Caves’ tumultuous past.
The Mandapeshwar Caves are an archaeological heritage site protected by law. They stand as a reminder of the constant change and enduring spirit of Mumbai. As you leave, remember that you’ve walked through a place where faiths collided. You’ve seen art defaced and reborn. You felt the weight of centuries etched in stone.