Los Arrayanes

Has anyone ever told you the secret of the cinnamon trees? Los Arrayanes National Park whispers this secret. It’s not really cinnamon, but the bark of the arrayán tree. The Luma apiculata. Its smooth, peeling bark reveals patches of white underneath, creating a tapestry of warm cinnamon and cool white. Los Arrayanes National Park was established in 1971. It’s a small park, just a sliver of land on the Quetrihué Peninsula jutting into Nahuel Huapi Lake. But its size belies its significance. This park protects a forest of these ancient trees, some over 600 years old. Imagine standing beneath these giants, their twisted branches reaching towards the sky. The air is perfumed by the small, white blossoms of the arrayán. Sunlight filters through the canopy, dappling the forest floor in a mosaic of light and shadow. Los Arrayanes National Park isn’t just about the trees. Two lagoons, Hua Huan and Patagua, lie at the heart of the peninsula. They provide a haven for the endangered huillín, a native otter. Birdwatchers will delight in the variety of species. Look for the Magellanic woodpecker, the Austral parakeet, and the Thorn-tailed Rayadito flitting amongst the branches. You can reach this magical forest by boat from Villa La Angostura or Bariloche. Or you can take the scenic 12-kilometer trail from the park entrance. It’s a three-hour hike, but well worth the effort. As you walk the wooden pathway, built to protect the fragile roots of the arrayanes, remember you’re walking through a living museum. A place where time seems to stand still, guarded by the cinnamon-colored sentinels of Los Arrayanes.