A gift shop at a cemetery? That was my first thought. But there it was. A small store selling books and postcards right at the entrance to Laurel Hill Cemetery.
Laurel Hill. The second oldest garden cemetery in the United States. Founded in 1836 it was a revolutionary idea. Philadelphia was growing rapidly. Churchyard burials were overcrowded and unpleasant. Librarian John Jay Smith couldn’t even find his daughter’s grave. This spurred him into action. He and others sought a better resting place. They found it five miles up the Schuylkill River. Laurel Hill was a former country estate. Remote enough to avoid future city expansion. It had easy river access. Steamboats brought people and coffins. The verdant land was perfect for a bucolic garden overlooking the water. They hired Scottish architect John Notman. He transformed Laurel Hill into Philadelphia’s premier eternal resting place.
Getting famous people to be buried there was key. Revolutionary War veterans were the first. Families were convinced to move their loved ones’ remains. Laurel Hill became the place to be. Even when you were dead.
The cemetery grew throughout the 19th century. Many monuments were added. Some simple some quite elaborate. Our tour focused on famous occupants. Civil War general George Meade was one. So was legendary Phillies broadcaster Harry Kalas. Meade’s grave was the most visited. Then Kalas overtook him. There’s even a fictional grave. The tombstone for Adrian Balboa from Rocky. It’s carefully tended off to the side.
Laurel Hill has an estimated 75000 to 100000 people buried there. The Friends of Laurel Hill are very entrepreneurial. They host yoga classes. They have a graveyard cabaret. There’s a car and hearse show a 5K run and the Gravedigger’s Ball. They show respect for the dead and the site. But they also have fun with the quirky history. They present Laurel Hill as a picturesque retreat. Not as a spooky place. In the 19th century people had picnics and carriage rides among the gravestones. Today visitors are encouraged to enjoy the cemetery respectfully. It’s okay to have a good time. Even in a cemetery.